Protective Style Lookbook || Gorgeous Chunky Flat Twists Updo

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: NaturalMetra

Difficulty level: 3/5

Description: Side chunky flat twists pinned into beautiful updo.

Mixology || A More Natural Bug Spray Recipe

Do you want an alternative to the chemical-based bug sprays out there?  Are you interested in making a more natural bug spray?

Recipe Source

Ingredients:

- ½ cup distilled water
- 1 tbsp alcohol
- 6-10 drops essential oil: use any of these alone or any combination – lemongrass, any mint, lavender, citronella, eucalyptus, tea tree, neem, geranium, and litsea cubeba. 

Instructions:
Pour the alcohol into the spray bottle. Add the essential oils and shake well. Add water, leaving enough room at the top so it will mix when you shake it. If you use a large spray bottle, ingredients can be doubled or tripled.

For more DIY Natural Recipes, check out: DIYNatural Blog

How to Wear A Wash-n-Go with Minimal Tangles

If you have been following me for the past few months, then you are probably aware of my growing re-interest in wearing wash-n-gos.  Up until recently, I took the stance that most type 4 naturals (especially 4b/4c) take on such styles .... "Wash-n-gos on this hair type = asking for trouble."  Well, that was until I tried Cynthiarf's method.

Since then, I've been wearing the wash-n-go on and off and have learned a few lessons along the way.  Here they are for those who are interested in trying this style in the near future:

1. If you have fine strands, then you might want to stay away from the wash-n-go.
Majority of my hair is medium, the crown is coarse, and the back is fine.  When it comes to the wash-n-go, the back (the fine hair) tangles and breaks more easily so I have to be more patient and meticulous in that section.  If my whole head were fine, I would more than likely not be wearing wash-n-gos as much as I am now.

2. Co-wash (rather than shampoo wash) for your wash-n-go.
This lesson is almost a given but stands stating.  Cynthiarf's regimen calls for shampoo-ing once a week when wearing the wash-n-go daily, and I have found success with that routine as well.  The remainder of the week calls for conditioner washes or water rinses followed up with conditioner.  Why conditioner?  Because it smooths the strands, restores moisture, and makes finger-combing easier.

3. Finger-comb thoroughly and daily.
The finger-combing process is crucial because it keep the strands detangled, removes shed hair that could contribute to tangling, and removes any tangles (which are few) that have formed.  The process is not long at all; it takes me no more than 10 minutes.  (Check out Cynthiarf's tutorial.)

4. Do not manipulate your wash-n-go.
This step is also crucial as it reduces the possibility of tangle formation.  Once your wash-n-go is complete, do not disturb the strands via twirling with your fingers, rubbing with a towel, combing, or any other manipulation.

5. Use the right conditioner.
Not every conditioner is made for a wash-n-go.  I find the most success with Tresemme, but you may find success with another brand/type.  Do check out Cynthiarf's video for more details on what to look for in a wash-n-go conditioner.

6. If you have time, rake through with gel.
Raking through your wash-n-go with gel will help your coils to clump a little and tangle less.  This step is not necessary, and I have worn many of my wash-n-gos without doing it.  However, if you have an extra 10-20 minutes and want a little more security, go for it.

M.A.C. LIPSTICK IN AMPLIFIED DUBONNET REVIEW

Hello ladies….

How are you all? I hope you all are enjoying your summer days. Well today I am going to review MAC lipstick in amplified Dubonnet. I have always admired MAC lipsticks. I have read online how great their lipsticks are. I always wanted to have them and yeahhh finally got the lipstick. i was looking for a red lipstick which is not too bright red and goes well with my skin tone and this the one I got, yes amplified Dubonnet lipstick. Well let’s get started with review….. :)

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Hair Diary || Braid-Out to Stretched Bun

Chunky braid-out using eight braids on wet hair.

After some time wearing wash-n-gos, I decided to wear a braid-out for a few days and then a stretched bun for a day.  To go into the braid-out, I finger-combed on wet, conditioner-soaked hair and made eight braids.  Then I let my hair air-dry and undid the braids for the braid-out.

And now for more hair photos:

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Latifatumi

What I LOVE about this lady's hair is that it has an amazing healthy sheen/shine and with minimal product.  It is also springy and thick from root to tip.  Latifatumi has a pretty basic regimen that involves largely natural products, including African Black Soap, shea butter, etc.  Check out Part I of her regimen in the following video.  (The remaining parts can be found on her channel.)

NOTE: If you are interested in viewing her hair type in its natural state, do check out the following video.

Hair Diary || Ombre Color for the Summer

The resulting hair color.

My red highlights from about 2.5 years ago had grown out and faded gradually and so I've been back to my natural beautiful black color (with a few faded sections) for some time.  With summer approaching and my itch for a change intensifying, I decided to dye my ends brown for an ombre effect.  The brown did not come out as light as I thought it would but it is growing on me.  I may or may not decide to go lighter in a few months.  We will see.

Circa January 2011.  My red highlights months were done circa November 2010.

Clairol Textures & Tones is a popular brand among naturals, largely because it does not dry out and damage our strands as other dyes can.  I don't know whether I like the product yet.  We'll see how the color fairs over the next few months.  (I let the color set for 35 minutes before rinsing.) 

This is how I achieved the ombre.
I figured it would be easiest to work from  eight big braids and apply the color to the ends (which I left unbraided).

The result.  It looks more subtle in person.

The result.  The flash enhances the color.  It looks more subtle and less red in person.

It looks more subtle in person.

It looks more subtle in person.

Pool Hair Care || Using Vitamin C to Neutralize Chlorine

The weather is warm.  You go for a swim in the pool.  Even after taking all the measures necessary to prevent the pool water from reaching your hair, perhaps your tresses still get drenched ... and encounter chlorine.  Fortunately, there are shampoos on the market that are specifically made to remove chlorine from your hair, but what if you want a cheaper or natural alternative?

Ascorbic acid is one option.  There are quite a few experiments (and studies) out there involving the use of this form of vitamin C to neutralize chlorine in the realm of water treatment.  Additionally, ascorbic acid can be purchased online or in certain health stores in capsule, crystalline, or other forms.

If you are interested in making your own mixture to remove chlorine from your hair, do read more about ascorbic acid as an option.

SOURCES:
VITAMIN C DECHLORINATION IN WATER SYSTEMS
VITAMIN C (ASCORBIC ACID)
ASCORBIC ACID REDUCTION OF RESIDUAL ACTIVE CHLORINE IN WATER (2000)

HAIRX-VOLUME BOOST LEAVE IN CONDITIONER

Hello beauties!!!
Hope you all are liking my haul posts.Your appreciation really means a lot to me and it keeps me going on and on like this.If you guys have any haul posts or videos do share them with me and you can leave the links for the same in the comments below.i will make sure to see them and get inspired from them.well all this talk apart, today i am going to review HAIRX VOLUME BOOST LEAVE IN CONDITIONER by oriflame.This product was bought by me especially for my mom.My mom's hair was thinning from last few months and it was concerning her a lot(me too).So she was constantly asking me to find an appropriate product for the same.So i ended up buying this leave in conditioner as it appeared appealing to me.i didn't want to use something harsh or strong initially so i got this conditioner to be on the safe side.i have come across many such products which assures to give volume and instead it results in hair fall.so i decided why not start with this leave in conditioner.i think i have talked much so lets start with product review,,,,

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Playlist for mid

Loo - Wavy

Currently playing: 2 weeks of semi-straight natural hair

Sounds like: Leela James

Chorus: Nightly plaits to maintain the style, daily buns, moisturize as needed

Leela James

Loo - Wavy Bun

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention II

• While maintaining twists, how can you prevent the ends from getting tangly (scraggly)? 
• i second the question on how to prevent tangly ends while in twists. they feel detangled before i twist them, but when i take them down i sometimes feel the tangles.

I first make sure to twist on damp/dry, stretched hair.  (Shrunken ends are more inclined to tangle than stretched ends.)  To prevent tangling after twisting, I keep moisturizing and washing to a minimum - about weekly or biweekly.  By the end of week #2, my ends are pretty shrunken and this would be a perfect time to redo my twists.  However, I tend to keep twists in for 3-4 weeks at a time.  Slightly tangled ends at this point are almost inevitable, but shea butter or some water + conditioner help the strands separate fairly easily.  (If the ends are really tangled, that may indicate that you're in need of a trim.)

• How often should you trim while wearing twists? 

Trim as often as needed rather than on a set schedule.  (See this post.)  Trimming on a set schedule reduces length retention in my opinion and experience.

• When is the best time to start pinning them up? I'm noticing that I'm losing some length due to damage at the ends, though I've been wearing my hair in twists as a protective style for the past few months.

Ideally, you want to start pinning up twists when they are long enough such that the style is effortless and does not cause much tension on the scalp or ends.  For me, that "comfortable" length was APL stretched.  Damage at the ends can result from a number of sources: pinning up the twists too early, leaving the twists in for too long, impatience during the twist takedown, improperly taking the twists down (i.e., pulling them apart from root to tip = bad), dryness, etc.

3in6 Challenge Rules

For the first post, read here.

--------------
To all the challengers (and interested readers), be sure to bookmark this post!

Purpose of this challenge: To retain 2-3 inches of growth in 6 months.

Challenge period: February 1 - August 1, 2011

Guidelines:
1. Eat fresh vegetables or fruits with each meal.
2. Take a daily multivitamin.
3. Drink sufficient water.
(Amt of water in oz. = Your weight in lbs * 0.5)
4. Wear twists or braids 2-4 weeks at a time.
5. No direct heat.
6. Pre-poo with coconut oil for 20 minutes.
7. Absolutely no trimming.  (Start with a fresh cut now if need be.)

Allowances:
Each challenger is allowed two 1-week periods of styling her hair as she pleases (e.g., puff, rollerset, etc.).

For documentation of your length retention:
- Notebook/journal or camera
- Ruler/measuring tape

Tips on wearing twists/braids long term:
- Do not twist/braid too tightly
- Redo the perimeter weekly or biweekly.
- Deep condition & detangle thoroughly prior to twisting or braiding.
- For more tips, check out posts in the twist series

The Challenge begins February 1st!  Start preparing.

Chapt.II: Precautions When Highlighting

Last week, I talked about factors to consider BEFORE chemically highlighting your natural hair.  Please read that post before delving into to this one.

This week, I'll discuss some precautions one should take when highlighting natural hair at home.  If you choose to have the process done professionally, be sure that your colorist knows how to color natural hair and not just hair in general.  I had a friend walk into an Aveda salon and walk out with beautiful color but loosened texture and dry hair.  Don't let that be you.

PRECAUTIONS when highlighting at home:

1. Use a commercial kit.  Commercial highlighting kits are designed to yield minimal mistakes.  I have used (in the past) and recommend African Pride HiLites.  L'Oreal Colour Rays (used this time) is also good but TOO strong for relaxed tresses.  Though a few people have had success with hydrogen perioxide as a highlighting technique, I do NOT recommend it (from my own past experience); by the time it lifts the color to a desirable shade, damage is done to the strands.

2. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS provided in the kit.  This is the number one precaution one must take above all others.  Many highlight jobs go wrong when instructions are not followed properly.  I've had the experience of my whole hair break off when I left a dye on for 5 minutes longer than stated in the directions.

3. Pre-treat with coconut oil for 20 minutes before highlighting.  I don't know whether this method is effective against chemical damage or merely psychological, but I felt better knowing that my hair was strengthened going into the dye job.  The oil did not interfere with the intensity of the color in my experience.

4. Don't leave the dye on your head longer than instructed.  Actually, it is ideal to leave it on for less time. If the kit says 25 minutes, leave it on for 20 minutes.  If you want optimal color, leave it on for the full 25 minutes but no longer than that.

5. Rinse and wash your hair and scalp thoroughly after the process.

6. After using the conditioner/conditioning shampoo from the kit, follow up with your usual deep conditioner.  This step will ensure that moisture and strength is restored to your strands.  In my recent highlighting experience, I immediately followed up with a 20-minute deep treatment using Lekair Cholesterol mixed with olive oil.

7. Wait about 4-6 months to highlight after a henna treatment.  (See this link.)  After highlighting, wait another 4-6 months before hennaing again.  Some individuals may highlight/henna sooner, but this precaution is just to be on the safe side.

NEXT WEEK ... MAINTENANCE TIPS

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention IV

Micro twists (real hair)

• I want to know how often should you moisturize in twists? I tend to do it everyday, and my hair ends up fuzzy!

I moisturize 1x a week, thus minimizing frizz, fuzz, and shrinkage.  I'm a big believer that if a moisturizer is doing what it's supposed to do, one wouldn't have to use it daily.  Try experimenting with other products if the one you are using just isn't keeping your hair moisturized.  Additionally, look into what you are using for your deep conditioner.  In my experience, a good deep condition and moisturizer on the day of twisting is key!  (Other than this method, you can plait your twists until they airdry to minimize the fuzz.)

• at what length should you start wearing twists for length retention? i have about eight inches of hair all around and any time i try to do twists, it just looks ridiculous if i don't pin it up into a style. should i just refrain from doing twists until i get more length?

You can start wearing twists at any length that you are able to do so.  I will admit that when my hair was shorter, I felt ridiculous wearing twists to work.  However, after playing with them for some time, I was able to find a "suitable" style that was comfortable for me.  Eight inches is actually a good length for versatile twist styles.  In the next post, I'll include some pictures of style ideas for all lengths.  Stay tuned ...

_____________________

In case anyone has missed previous Q&As, check out this Twist Series recap.  Feel free to post any more questions in the comment section below:

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention III
Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention II
Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention I
Twist Series: Washing & Matting
Twist Series: How to Flat Twist
Twists Series: Method II
Twist Series: Frizz and Knots
Twist Series: The Method I
Twists Series: Maintenance II
Twist Series: Maintenance I

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Afrostory

Afrostory is another one of my favorite healthy hair youtubers.  She has the length and thick ends to show for it.  What's more?  She's a doctoral student specializing in an area about which she is clearly passionate - anthropology.  In the following video, Afrostory gives the "Inside Scoop on Healthy Hair".  Your thoughts?

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Rusticbeauty

Rusticbeauty is one of my FAVORITE youtube hair ladies, and I've been following her since my early natural days.  She's achieved long, healthy natural via twisting and certainly has a hair care routine that works well for her.  In her earlier videos, she was big on using shea butter, Infusium 23, Organix, and coconut oil.  I share her channel with you for inspiration.

Some Rusticbeauty videos with which to start:
Ten tips for natural hair: video
Hair care regimen - pre-shampoo: video
Hair care regimen - after washing: video
Hair care regimen - after moisturizing: video
Hair care regimen - night-time prep: video

DISCLAIMER: Other people's hair care routine may or may not work for you.  Rather, use the suggested hair care routine as guidance and tweak for your hair.

Twists Series: Maintenance II

FUTURE TOPIC: The Method I ...

"I have short hair (about 4 to 5inches) and whenever I twist my hair it twists up on itself so they look like they're sticking out all over my head. How do I get them to all lie straight down?"

I had a similar situation when I was at that stage.  What helped was to twist my hair wet as opposed to dry.  Doing that allowed for the water to weigh down the twists.  Once the twists airdried, they would remain down with the help of wrapping with a scarf nightly.  The longer your hair grows, the less they will stick out.  When I hit about 8-9 inches, my twists no longer stuck out.

"How do you keep them moist?"

I spritz weekly with water until damp and then apply whipped shea butter.  I also wear updos 95% of the time, which involves tucking the ends of my twists under.  

"What do you do to the ends when they are dry or ragged looking (or is it just time for a trim!?)"

•When my ends are dry, I revive them with water and whipped shea butter.  Sometimes, my dry ends call for a fresh wash.

••When they get ragged looking and even thin, I tend to trim them.  Raggedness sometimes implies damaged ends.  Additionally, such ends may cause damage to the healthy ones.  Ragged, thin ends make it harder for me to undo my twists and easier for tangles and knots to form.  Thus, I trim them away.  In between trims, I try to minimize tasks that contribute to thin, ragged ends ... such as impatience during detangling and twist takedown, sleeping on cotton pillowcases without a protective barrier (e.g., satin scarf), etc.

"Is it more important to not touch the hair in the twists for say a week minimum or to keep it in a style that will retain moisture and protect the ends? I ask this since the front of my hair especially gets extremely fuzzy after 2 to 3 days of fresh twists!"

•In order to retain length, it is more important to wear styles that retain moisture and protect the ends than to not touch one's twists for a week. It is more important to pin up the twists daily and take it down nightly than to wear the pinned style 24-7 and risk hairline damage.  It is more important to touch the hair with moisture and risk fuzz than to not touch the hair and risk dryness.  In other words, properly caring for your twists may require some touching within the week, which is fine.  Health supersedes no fuzz.
••For a future topic, I'll talk about how to twist such that fuzz is minimized.

"Did you experience alot of matting and knotting when leaving the twists in for even short periods of time?"

Short answer: It depends.  What I've learned is that I get the most matting and knotting when: 1) I wash more than twice during a twist period and 2) don't detangle thoroughly between twist sessions.  Even if it's a short period in twists, matting and knotting will occur if I do #1 and/or #2.  With my current regimen (twists for 3 weeks, 1-2x washes), I get no matting and very little knotting.

"I noticed some ppl do twists for say a week then use the twist out on the weekend...does this act as being counter - productive?"

I used this method during my in-between stage (between TWA and BAA) and it worked out well.  It's ideal for those who like to wear their hair out but do not want to sacrifice the health and length retention. It is only counter-productive if one is pinched for time; such a method requires weekly detangling and re-twisting.  Other than the time factor, it is a good method.

Winterize Your Conditioner!

Okay, it's not officially Winter yet, but it doesn't hurt to prepare ...

My obsession with shea butter does not stop at hair and body butters but extends to deep conditioners.  A few tablespoons will infuse an inexpensive conditioner with moisture and slip.  Try adding some melted shea butter to V05, Suave, or White Rain ... or mixing it with honey, egg, oil, or avocado to deep condition your hair this Winter ... and even Autumn!

Healthy Hair Feature || Izzie

1. What made you go natural?  How long have you been natural?

 I went natural because I saw baby pictures of how long and thick my hair was and wanted to try and get back to that. I struggled with a lot of self esteem issues and figured that the best step to having a higher self image was to learn to embrace myself as I naturally am, and that meant natural hair. I have been natural for one year and 8 months . I got my last relaxer right before I started my first year of college. 

2. Did you transition? If so, for how long?  

I transitioned for 11 months. From September 2012-August 2013. My big chop was spontaneous. I washed my hair, saw the curl patter and got excited and just cut off the relaxed ends. I had planned to transition for at least a year and a half while chopping off small amounts at a time. 

3. What is your Healthy Hair routine?

I co-wash my hair once a week. Before I wash, I do a pre-poo of honey, a rinse out moisturizing conditioner and coconut oil. Then I deep condition with heat. Once a month, I do a clarifying wash and a protein treatment.  I moisturize my hair three times a week with a water, glycerin and aloe vera mix. Then I seal with olive oil and a butter. 

4. Do you have a Healthy Body routine?  If so, what is it?

I am a student athlete at university, so during my season I train for professional track and field.  I go to the gym 3 times a week and run every morning, whether sprint intervals or a cardio work out. When I'm on holiday, I do 30 mins of cardio and then do yoga. I drink water throughout the day and try to eat as healthy as possible. I eat fruits every day, mostly for breakfast. I incorporate vegetables into my lunch and dinner. 

5. What advice/tips do you have for naturals?

Embrace your natural hair. Its who you are. Also, moisture is important when trying to retain length. Moisturize as soon as your hair needs it. 

6. Where can we find you?

Instagram: @izziebadsuh

Tumblr: myworldofcurls.tumblr.com

Twist Series: More to Come!

After two weeks of bunning, I'll be twisting again this weekend.  Answers to the following are on the way:

• When you put in your shea butter mixture can you indicate how much exactly you put, because I find that when I do my hair I can't lean up on anything afterwards...lol Should it be a dime sized amount or should I not worry about the oil slick!
• Can you show a picture to give any indication to how you part the twists?
• When you say that you "reapply the whipped shea butter" weekly.. do you just rub the butter along the twisted hair? Or untwist, apply shea butter, and then retwist?
• Do you have alot of shorter strands of hair that contribute to the frizzy look? I noticed that I have alot at the top and middle of my head and was wondering if that is natural or if something is wrong since to me it seems to be increasing in number!
• Second, does having alot of single strand knots at the ends of my hair mean its definitely time for a trim?

If you have more questions, feel free to leave a comment with this post.  Until next week!