How to Wear A Wash-n-Go with Minimal Tangles

If you have been following me for the past few months, then you are probably aware of my growing re-interest in wearing wash-n-gos.  Up until recently, I took the stance that most type 4 naturals (especially 4b/4c) take on such styles .... "Wash-n-gos on this hair type = asking for trouble."  Well, that was until I tried Cynthiarf's method.

Since then, I've been wearing the wash-n-go on and off and have learned a few lessons along the way.  Here they are for those who are interested in trying this style in the near future:

1. If you have fine strands, then you might want to stay away from the wash-n-go.
Majority of my hair is medium, the crown is coarse, and the back is fine.  When it comes to the wash-n-go, the back (the fine hair) tangles and breaks more easily so I have to be more patient and meticulous in that section.  If my whole head were fine, I would more than likely not be wearing wash-n-gos as much as I am now.

2. Co-wash (rather than shampoo wash) for your wash-n-go.
This lesson is almost a given but stands stating.  Cynthiarf's regimen calls for shampoo-ing once a week when wearing the wash-n-go daily, and I have found success with that routine as well.  The remainder of the week calls for conditioner washes or water rinses followed up with conditioner.  Why conditioner?  Because it smooths the strands, restores moisture, and makes finger-combing easier.

3. Finger-comb thoroughly and daily.
The finger-combing process is crucial because it keep the strands detangled, removes shed hair that could contribute to tangling, and removes any tangles (which are few) that have formed.  The process is not long at all; it takes me no more than 10 minutes.  (Check out Cynthiarf's tutorial.)

4. Do not manipulate your wash-n-go.
This step is also crucial as it reduces the possibility of tangle formation.  Once your wash-n-go is complete, do not disturb the strands via twirling with your fingers, rubbing with a towel, combing, or any other manipulation.

5. Use the right conditioner.
Not every conditioner is made for a wash-n-go.  I find the most success with Tresemme, but you may find success with another brand/type.  Do check out Cynthiarf's video for more details on what to look for in a wash-n-go conditioner.

6. If you have time, rake through with gel.
Raking through your wash-n-go with gel will help your coils to clump a little and tangle less.  This step is not necessary, and I have worn many of my wash-n-gos without doing it.  However, if you have an extra 10-20 minutes and want a little more security, go for it.

Type 4 Series: Short Styles I (Simple 'n Go)

This is a series on how to style and manage type 4 hair healthily. This particular post is for natural hair; stretchers and transitioners, stay tuned!

Today's topic: Styling short, necklength hair.  Part I.
Future topic: Styling short, necklength hair. Part II.

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Chances are if your hair is type 4 necklength, it shrinks up to a TWA.  Well, mine did. I remember during that stage, two styles were my best friends - the twistout fro and the wash-n-go fro. They were simple at that stage. They were quick. They looked cuter than my short twists (which I was not liking at that length). I will admit that I felt like a boy at first, but when I added a flower, scarf, earrings, or eye shadow, that all changed.

The woman in the following video is the epitome of someone rocking her type 4 short hair with confidence. Yes, confidence is an accessory needed to wear your "nappy short" hair ... especially in a society where "that kind of hair" is "unusual". 

The next time you're stuck in a styling rut, remember this video. Styling short type 4 hair does not have to be complex; just fluff and go, wash and go, or do a twist out and go.  Enjoy the simplicity of your hair at that length because once it grows (believe me), you're in a whole other ball park.


Yaasoulrebel's channel

Here's another type 4 (who you may know) rocking her short hair with various stylish headbands:

Mae's channel

Study || Hard Water Impact On Hair

Hard water metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layer.  A study published in 2011 indicated that these metals can affect certain hair properties, which include:

- stiffening of hair strand
- reduction of combing forces
- improvement of ability to hold a style in virgin hair
- reduction of ability to hold a style in bleached hair

Additionally, certain variables affect the uptake of hard water metals by the hair, such as the:

- condition of the hair (e.g., chemically damaged)
- pH of the water
- level of water hardness


ABSTRACTS:
STRUCTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF HARD WATER METALS (2011)
UPTAKE OF HARD WATER METALS BY HAIR (2011)

Intermission: Hair & Attitude

A short break from the usual blog topics ...

When I wear my hair loose, which is rare, it is big, kinky, and ... foreign. I have had the occasional stranger's hand in my fro. I have had people approach me with the first sentences out of their mouth concerning my hair. "How do you do that?" "Do you plan to loc?" Etc. Last Friday, I got my first "I approached you because your natural hair attracted me" from a male. The reactions do not bother me, though, and I actually find it entertaining especially since the reason I went natural was to achieve healthy hair and not to make a statement. Though many black women are transitioning to natural today, the look of natural is still foreign to some.

My sister emailed me an interesting article with audios from nine women -- natural, weaved, straightened, loced, etc. -- about attitudes surrounding their hair. A related article is also included touching upon black hair and politics. Here is a synopsis followed by a link to the read:

"When it comes to straightening hair or letting it be natural, the choice still pushes deep emotional buttons for many African-American women. Others ask, why can't hair just be hair? Nine black women discuss their hairstyles and the attitudes surrounding their hair..."

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/08/27/fashion/20090827-hair-interactive.html

Care to share your experiences?

Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

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FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Basic Regimen & Products for Healthy Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Healthy Hairstyling #4: Twists

The two-strand twist. A protective style that can be done on natural or chemically straightened hair. A style that is relatively easy and quick to do. A style that protects the strands by minimizing tangles and locking in moisture. A style that helps many to retain length.

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #1:
This lady wears twists for up to two weeks and a twistout the following week. Her routine has visibly contributed to her long, healthy tresses. Every now and then, she switches up her style with a sleek, straight do, a puff, etc. Her channel includes twist and twistout tutorials, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy hair tips, style experiments, and more:
Rusticbeauty

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #2:
If you are uncomfortable wearing twists with your current hair length or simply just prefer the look of kinky twists, this lady may be an inspiration to you. She has achieved healthy, long hair through a kinky twist do-it-yourself (DIY) routine. She wears the style for a few months with breaks in between in which she wears intricate puffs, simple two-strand twists, ... you name it ... on her real hair. Her channel includes a kinky twist tutorial, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy eating and exercise tips, and more: BeautifulBrwnBabyDol

Twists can be done on wet or dry hair depending on the look you want achieve or other preferences. Twists done on wet natural hair are generally thicker, shrunken, and less likely to unravel while those done on dry, stretched hair are sleeker, thinner, and longer.

Twists can also be done as large or small as you want them to be. Smaller twists tend to last longer, lock faster, take longer to do and remove, and yield more defined twistouts. Larger twists tend to be faster to achieve and unravel, look more scalpy on certain heads, minimize knotting of the ends for certain hair types, etc.

Twists on chemically straightened hair is feasible. Apply a butter, gel, and/or setting lotion to the ends of your hair while twisting. (Naturals may benefit from the application of these products as well.) Then place a perm rod on the end of each twist, allow to dry, and then remove the perm rods. This process will prevent the twists from unravelling.

Twists are not for everyone. Some naturals do experience knotting and tangling of the ends with twists. A few options to overcome this dilemma include:

*twist on dry, stretched hair (stretched hair is less likely to knot/tangle),
*get a trim (a few scragglers can cause tangles),
*put perm rods on the ends of your twists (this stretches the ends),
*braid the ends of your twists (this keeps the ends intact), or
*opt for kinky or senegalese twist extensions.

If none of these options work, braiding the hair instead of twisting it may be your best bet.

Reader's Question: Hair Knots ... Be Gone!

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Post on "When You Get a Knot" coming soon.

Single-strand knots. Double-strand knots. Multiple-strand knots. Be gone!

The truth of the matter is that for many naturals, hair knots are inevitable. We can have a solid hair care regimen, yet they always appear. This is because our curls, coils, and kinks form an environment conducive to tangling and knotting.

Though hair knots cannot be prevented altogether, the frequency of their occurrence can be minimized. Here are 5 tips I have read about and used to reduce the formation of the natural's nightmare - the knot:

1. Protective style - This is the number one most useful tip, and it makes perfect sense. When is a piece of yarn most prone to tangling - when it is in a perfect ball or when it is loose? The answer is the latter, and the same goes for our hair. Twists and braids are probably the most useful protective styles for minimizing knot formation. (If you are one those naturals who still gets knots while in twists, you may want to try braids instead.)

2. Detangle regularly - Hair that is allowed to stay tangled is more likely to knot. Additionally, shed hair that is allowed to accumulate becomes hair that is just waiting to wrap itself around another. Detangling removes tangles and shed hair, thus reducing knot formation.

3. Wash in sections - For some of us, washing the hair loose is just asking for knot city! I recommend washing and conditioning in sections -- particularly in braids or twists -- to reduce tangling and knot formation.

4. Stretched loose style / No wash-n-gos - Straight hair rarely, if ever, knots onto itself. But wait! I am not suggesting that your options are limited to using a flat iron or relaxer kit to reduce knots. Naturals can wear rollersets, twistouts, braidouts, or other stretched styles that temporarily and healthily elongate the curl pattern. Minimize or stay away from wash-n-gos altogether. Caveat: Once a stretched style starts to shrink, the loose hair can be prone to tangling. Try to save stretched styles for non-humid days.

5. Moisturize, moisturize - Some naturals swear by this method for knot reduction. Hair strands that are dry will experience more friction and join into knots. Hair strands that are well moisturized will slide past each other and have a harder time tangling together.  Don't forget to seal with an oil/butter to not only lock in the moisture but to add more slip between hair strands.

Traycee Talks "Embracing My Natural Hair The Rollercoaster While Transitioning and Going Natural"

I got emotional watching this video and could relate to much of what she said.  I promise you this will not be a waste of 11 minutes at all.