How to Wear A Wash-n-Go with Minimal Tangles

If you have been following me for the past few months, then you are probably aware of my growing re-interest in wearing wash-n-gos.  Up until recently, I took the stance that most type 4 naturals (especially 4b/4c) take on such styles .... "Wash-n-gos on this hair type = asking for trouble."  Well, that was until I tried Cynthiarf's method.

Since then, I've been wearing the wash-n-go on and off and have learned a few lessons along the way.  Here they are for those who are interested in trying this style in the near future:

1. If you have fine strands, then you might want to stay away from the wash-n-go.
Majority of my hair is medium, the crown is coarse, and the back is fine.  When it comes to the wash-n-go, the back (the fine hair) tangles and breaks more easily so I have to be more patient and meticulous in that section.  If my whole head were fine, I would more than likely not be wearing wash-n-gos as much as I am now.

2. Co-wash (rather than shampoo wash) for your wash-n-go.
This lesson is almost a given but stands stating.  Cynthiarf's regimen calls for shampoo-ing once a week when wearing the wash-n-go daily, and I have found success with that routine as well.  The remainder of the week calls for conditioner washes or water rinses followed up with conditioner.  Why conditioner?  Because it smooths the strands, restores moisture, and makes finger-combing easier.

3. Finger-comb thoroughly and daily.
The finger-combing process is crucial because it keep the strands detangled, removes shed hair that could contribute to tangling, and removes any tangles (which are few) that have formed.  The process is not long at all; it takes me no more than 10 minutes.  (Check out Cynthiarf's tutorial.)

4. Do not manipulate your wash-n-go.
This step is also crucial as it reduces the possibility of tangle formation.  Once your wash-n-go is complete, do not disturb the strands via twirling with your fingers, rubbing with a towel, combing, or any other manipulation.

5. Use the right conditioner.
Not every conditioner is made for a wash-n-go.  I find the most success with Tresemme, but you may find success with another brand/type.  Do check out Cynthiarf's video for more details on what to look for in a wash-n-go conditioner.

6. If you have time, rake through with gel.
Raking through your wash-n-go with gel will help your coils to clump a little and tangle less.  This step is not necessary, and I have worn many of my wash-n-gos without doing it.  However, if you have an extra 10-20 minutes and want a little more security, go for it.

Type 4 Series: Formal Style (Rollerset)

This is a series on how to style and manage type 4 hair healthily. It doesn't matter whether you are natural, transitioning, or stretching relaxers.

Today's topic: Roller set type 4 hair with no/low heat. Style into an elegant updo as pictured.

Difficulty level: Easy/Medium for experienced rollersetters or those with short hair, Hard for newbie rollersetters or those with long hair

Time: several hours

Tools: 

moisturizer (no humectants), 

gel (if you're natural; recommend Pantene, Eco Styler),
OR setting lotion (if you're relaxed, transitioning) 

anti-humidity serum (recommend Redken, CHI, Pantene), 

rattail comb, 

ouchless bands, 

snap-on magnetic rollers (size depends on length of hair; the smaller, the longer lasting the style)

OR flexi-rods (more difficult to use)

Instructions:

• Wash, deep condition, detangle as usual
• Apply moisturizer and braid into 6-10 sections with ouchless bands at the roots
• Allow hair to airdry to 70-80% (somewhere between damp + dry but closer to damp).  This step stretches the coils and minimizes the density of natural, shrunken hair.

• One by one, undo each braid, remove the ouchless band, and do the following:
• Part a 1 inch by 2 1/2 inch section of hair
• Apply a moderate amount of gel to the section
• Follow up with a moderate amount of anti-humidity serum 
• Comb with rattail comb and roll tautly with a snap-on magnetic roller
• Repeat until done and move onto the next braid
• After you've finished roller setting, let the hair airdry COMPLETELY. (Alternatively, you may sit under a hooded dryer until hair is dry.)
• Remove the rollers and style as desired.  

[Back in 2008 with flexi-rods]

NOTE:

*It's KEY to let the hair dry completely before removing the rollers.

*The smaller the parts, the tighter and smoother the curls. 

*The smaller the rollers, the tighter and smoother the curls.

*Gel works better on my hair than setting lotion.  Experiment with your hair to see what works for you.

*Reserve this style for dry (non-rainy, non-humid) weather.

Twist Series: Maintenance I

It's official!  The twist series has begun.  Today, I start by answering some of your questions.  The remaining questions will be answered in the weeks to come ...  Feel free to continue adding more questions/comments.

How long do you keep yours in?
2-3 weeks. I no longer keep them in for 4 weeks at a time since my current lifestyle requires that I look more "polished".

How many twists do you make?
About 40 twists on average.  Sometimes 30, sometimes 55.

How large do you make them?
Medium to large. Sometimes I make them small. I no longer do jumbo since they don't last as long. I haven't had time for micro/mini twists since my last set.  (My micro twists can be seen here.)

What products do you use?
On twist day, I start off with a Coconut Oil prepoo, followed by a wash with Desert Essence Lemon Tea Tree, followed by deep conditioning with Lekair Cholesterol. I then detangle before rinsing the conditioner. I airdry about 80-90% of the way in plaits. Then I apply a homemade Whipped Shea Butter to my whole head and begin twisting. (The whipped shea butter recipe can be found here.)

Do you do any daily/weekly/monthly maintenance?
Yes. I wear a satin scarf or bonnet nightly to keep the twists moisturized and intact. Before putting on the scarf/bonnet, I put my twists into a french roll or three big twists. (No bobby pins, ouchless bands, or anything; just hair.)  Weekly, I spritz my hair with a little water ... just enough to make it slightly damp and no more than that. Then I reapply the whipped shea butter and wrap my hair with a satin scarf. If it is a wash week, I may redo the perimeter of my twists.

How do you keep your ends moisturized?
I spritz water and apply whipped shea butter weekly (unless it's a wash week). I then follow up by wrapping my hair with a satin scarf until it dries ... otherwise, it'll be frizz galore. Before wrapping my hair, I put my twists in a french roll or three big twists.

How often do you shampoo/condition your hair while it is twisted up?
About 1x every 1-3 weeks, depending on the season. I tend to wash more frequently in the summer versus the rest of the year. I tend to wash more frequently if I've been sweating or if my hair is extremely parched.

Healthy Hairstyling #5: Phony Ponytails & Buns

2008: From twistout fro to kinky phony ponytail
(I used a pack of kinky hair to create the look.)

The "phony" ponytail, puff, and bun are not only creative ways to add length to your hair but healthy options to protect your ends. Here are a few youtube tutorials:

PHONY DONUT BUN:

PHONY PONYTAIL:

PHONY FRO HAWK:

Boar Brush = Damage to Your Edges?

I was on youtube some months ago when I came across a number of educational videos by a popular trichologist. One video, in particular, addressed the harmful tools we use on our hair versus healthier options. I was already aware of some of the tools that were discussed, but one surprise was that a soft boar brush -- a tool many of us swear by -- is more detrimental to the edges than a rattail comb. A surprise, but well reasoned. Just ask yourself, would you rather move bristles across sensitive skin ... or would you rather move a smooth object? Check out the video link below to see what I mean. After watching the trichologist's demonstration, I gradually weened myself off my beloved boar bristle brush.

**From her video, I'd also infer that the Denman brush is more gentle on the edges than a boar brush.

VIDEO ON HAIR TOOLS

Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

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FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Healthy Hairstyling #4: Twists

The two-strand twist. A protective style that can be done on natural or chemically straightened hair. A style that is relatively easy and quick to do. A style that protects the strands by minimizing tangles and locking in moisture. A style that helps many to retain length.

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #1:
This lady wears twists for up to two weeks and a twistout the following week. Her routine has visibly contributed to her long, healthy tresses. Every now and then, she switches up her style with a sleek, straight do, a puff, etc. Her channel includes twist and twistout tutorials, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy hair tips, style experiments, and more:
Rusticbeauty

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #2:
If you are uncomfortable wearing twists with your current hair length or simply just prefer the look of kinky twists, this lady may be an inspiration to you. She has achieved healthy, long hair through a kinky twist do-it-yourself (DIY) routine. She wears the style for a few months with breaks in between in which she wears intricate puffs, simple two-strand twists, ... you name it ... on her real hair. Her channel includes a kinky twist tutorial, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy eating and exercise tips, and more: BeautifulBrwnBabyDol

Twists can be done on wet or dry hair depending on the look you want achieve or other preferences. Twists done on wet natural hair are generally thicker, shrunken, and less likely to unravel while those done on dry, stretched hair are sleeker, thinner, and longer.

Twists can also be done as large or small as you want them to be. Smaller twists tend to last longer, lock faster, take longer to do and remove, and yield more defined twistouts. Larger twists tend to be faster to achieve and unravel, look more scalpy on certain heads, minimize knotting of the ends for certain hair types, etc.

Twists on chemically straightened hair is feasible. Apply a butter, gel, and/or setting lotion to the ends of your hair while twisting. (Naturals may benefit from the application of these products as well.) Then place a perm rod on the end of each twist, allow to dry, and then remove the perm rods. This process will prevent the twists from unravelling.

Twists are not for everyone. Some naturals do experience knotting and tangling of the ends with twists. A few options to overcome this dilemma include:

*twist on dry, stretched hair (stretched hair is less likely to knot/tangle),
*get a trim (a few scragglers can cause tangles),
*put perm rods on the ends of your twists (this stretches the ends),
*braid the ends of your twists (this keeps the ends intact), or
*opt for kinky or senegalese twist extensions.

If none of these options work, braiding the hair instead of twisting it may be your best bet.

How to || Heatless Blowout on 4B/4C Natural Hair

Watch Nyla's tutorial for a heatless blow out on thick 4B/4C hair.

Description: overnight braid out on damp hair followed by threading (worn for only a few hours).
Tools: thread, brush (or wide-tooth comb)

Absolutely NO HEAT! :o)