Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention II

• While maintaining twists, how can you prevent the ends from getting tangly (scraggly)? 
• i second the question on how to prevent tangly ends while in twists. they feel detangled before i twist them, but when i take them down i sometimes feel the tangles.

I first make sure to twist on damp/dry, stretched hair.  (Shrunken ends are more inclined to tangle than stretched ends.)  To prevent tangling after twisting, I keep moisturizing and washing to a minimum - about weekly or biweekly.  By the end of week #2, my ends are pretty shrunken and this would be a perfect time to redo my twists.  However, I tend to keep twists in for 3-4 weeks at a time.  Slightly tangled ends at this point are almost inevitable, but shea butter or some water + conditioner help the strands separate fairly easily.  (If the ends are really tangled, that may indicate that you're in need of a trim.)

• How often should you trim while wearing twists? 

Trim as often as needed rather than on a set schedule.  (See this post.)  Trimming on a set schedule reduces length retention in my opinion and experience.

• When is the best time to start pinning them up? I'm noticing that I'm losing some length due to damage at the ends, though I've been wearing my hair in twists as a protective style for the past few months.

Ideally, you want to start pinning up twists when they are long enough such that the style is effortless and does not cause much tension on the scalp or ends.  For me, that "comfortable" length was APL stretched.  Damage at the ends can result from a number of sources: pinning up the twists too early, leaving the twists in for too long, impatience during the twist takedown, improperly taking the twists down (i.e., pulling them apart from root to tip = bad), dryness, etc.

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention IV

Micro twists (real hair)

• I want to know how often should you moisturize in twists? I tend to do it everyday, and my hair ends up fuzzy!

I moisturize 1x a week, thus minimizing frizz, fuzz, and shrinkage.  I'm a big believer that if a moisturizer is doing what it's supposed to do, one wouldn't have to use it daily.  Try experimenting with other products if the one you are using just isn't keeping your hair moisturized.  Additionally, look into what you are using for your deep conditioner.  In my experience, a good deep condition and moisturizer on the day of twisting is key!  (Other than this method, you can plait your twists until they airdry to minimize the fuzz.)

• at what length should you start wearing twists for length retention? i have about eight inches of hair all around and any time i try to do twists, it just looks ridiculous if i don't pin it up into a style. should i just refrain from doing twists until i get more length?

You can start wearing twists at any length that you are able to do so.  I will admit that when my hair was shorter, I felt ridiculous wearing twists to work.  However, after playing with them for some time, I was able to find a "suitable" style that was comfortable for me.  Eight inches is actually a good length for versatile twist styles.  In the next post, I'll include some pictures of style ideas for all lengths.  Stay tuned ...

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In case anyone has missed previous Q&As, check out this Twist Series recap.  Feel free to post any more questions in the comment section below:

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention III
Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention II
Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention I
Twist Series: Washing & Matting
Twist Series: How to Flat Twist
Twists Series: Method II
Twist Series: Frizz and Knots
Twist Series: The Method I
Twists Series: Maintenance II
Twist Series: Maintenance I

Twists Series: Maintenance II

FUTURE TOPIC: The Method I ...

"I have short hair (about 4 to 5inches) and whenever I twist my hair it twists up on itself so they look like they're sticking out all over my head. How do I get them to all lie straight down?"

I had a similar situation when I was at that stage.  What helped was to twist my hair wet as opposed to dry.  Doing that allowed for the water to weigh down the twists.  Once the twists airdried, they would remain down with the help of wrapping with a scarf nightly.  The longer your hair grows, the less they will stick out.  When I hit about 8-9 inches, my twists no longer stuck out.

"How do you keep them moist?"

I spritz weekly with water until damp and then apply whipped shea butter.  I also wear updos 95% of the time, which involves tucking the ends of my twists under.  

"What do you do to the ends when they are dry or ragged looking (or is it just time for a trim!?)"

•When my ends are dry, I revive them with water and whipped shea butter.  Sometimes, my dry ends call for a fresh wash.

••When they get ragged looking and even thin, I tend to trim them.  Raggedness sometimes implies damaged ends.  Additionally, such ends may cause damage to the healthy ones.  Ragged, thin ends make it harder for me to undo my twists and easier for tangles and knots to form.  Thus, I trim them away.  In between trims, I try to minimize tasks that contribute to thin, ragged ends ... such as impatience during detangling and twist takedown, sleeping on cotton pillowcases without a protective barrier (e.g., satin scarf), etc.

"Is it more important to not touch the hair in the twists for say a week minimum or to keep it in a style that will retain moisture and protect the ends? I ask this since the front of my hair especially gets extremely fuzzy after 2 to 3 days of fresh twists!"

•In order to retain length, it is more important to wear styles that retain moisture and protect the ends than to not touch one's twists for a week. It is more important to pin up the twists daily and take it down nightly than to wear the pinned style 24-7 and risk hairline damage.  It is more important to touch the hair with moisture and risk fuzz than to not touch the hair and risk dryness.  In other words, properly caring for your twists may require some touching within the week, which is fine.  Health supersedes no fuzz.
••For a future topic, I'll talk about how to twist such that fuzz is minimized.

"Did you experience alot of matting and knotting when leaving the twists in for even short periods of time?"

Short answer: It depends.  What I've learned is that I get the most matting and knotting when: 1) I wash more than twice during a twist period and 2) don't detangle thoroughly between twist sessions.  Even if it's a short period in twists, matting and knotting will occur if I do #1 and/or #2.  With my current regimen (twists for 3 weeks, 1-2x washes), I get no matting and very little knotting.

"I noticed some ppl do twists for say a week then use the twist out on the weekend...does this act as being counter - productive?"

I used this method during my in-between stage (between TWA and BAA) and it worked out well.  It's ideal for those who like to wear their hair out but do not want to sacrifice the health and length retention. It is only counter-productive if one is pinched for time; such a method requires weekly detangling and re-twisting.  Other than the time factor, it is a good method.

Twist Series: More to Come!

After two weeks of bunning, I'll be twisting again this weekend.  Answers to the following are on the way:

• When you put in your shea butter mixture can you indicate how much exactly you put, because I find that when I do my hair I can't lean up on anything afterwards...lol Should it be a dime sized amount or should I not worry about the oil slick!
• Can you show a picture to give any indication to how you part the twists?
• When you say that you "reapply the whipped shea butter" weekly.. do you just rub the butter along the twisted hair? Or untwist, apply shea butter, and then retwist?
• Do you have alot of shorter strands of hair that contribute to the frizzy look? I noticed that I have alot at the top and middle of my head and was wondering if that is natural or if something is wrong since to me it seems to be increasing in number!
• Second, does having alot of single strand knots at the ends of my hair mean its definitely time for a trim?

If you have more questions, feel free to leave a comment with this post.  Until next week!

Twist Series: The Method I

More replies coming soon ... :o)

• When you put in your shea butter mixture can you indicate how much exactly you put, because I find that when I do my hair I can't lean up on anything afterwards...lol Should it be a dime sized amount or should I not worry about the oil slick!
• Can you show a picture to give any indication to how you part the twists?
• When you say that you "reapply the whipped shea butter" weekly.. do you just rub the butter along the twisted hair? Or untwist, apply shea butter, and then retwist?
• I find when I go to remoisturize my twists, whether I re-wet my hair and apply moisturizer or just apply the moisturizer alone, my twists are sooo frizzy and fuzzy afterwards. How can I prevent this? I have about 6 inches of hair just to give you an idea.

1. After washing, deep conditioning, and detangling, I plop my hair (while in 10-12 jumbo twists) in a towel. (Time: 1-2 hrs.)

2. After plopping, I undo each jumbo twist and apply a half-dollar-sized amount of whipped shea butter to each section.  Then I redo each jumbo twist and airdry (in a satin scarf) until 80-90% dry. (Time: several hours.)  I suggest applying enough butter to seal your hair and not so much to coat it.   

Plop, moisturize, then airdry in jumbo twists under scarf.

3. Once airdried 80-90% of the way, I begin to twist my hair.  I take down a jumbo twist and begin parting.  I find it easiest to part a horizontal section and then grab-and-go within that section.  I make smaller parts along the perimeter ... larger parts within the perimeter.  (Twist time: 1-3 hrs, depending on size.)  If needed, a small amount of whipped shea butter is reapplied to the ends of the twists only.

Part horizontally, then grab and go.

Smaller parts near nape.  (Not too small though.)

Long, slender parts along hairline.  (Too small = bad for my edges.)

4. When I reapply the whipped shea butter weekly (after a quick spritz with water), I just rub the butter along the twisted hair from the mid-shaft to the ends.  Afterwards, I immediately put my twists in 1-2 frenchbraids and wrap with a satin scarf to combat frizz formation.  Once the hair has "set", I take off the satin scarf. (Time: 30 minutes - 1hr.)

Twists Series: Method II

(Left) Twisting with "flat" strands vs. (Right) twisting with "coiled" strands.

How do I prolong the wear of my twists?  I use the "rope twist", or "senegalese twist" method.  This technique keeps my twists neater longer.  It also prevents the "puffy roots" look.  Check out these video tutorials ...

... by BlackOnyx77: tutorial.

... by BlackBeautyTips: tutorial.

Twist Series: Maintenance I

It's official!  The twist series has begun.  Today, I start by answering some of your questions.  The remaining questions will be answered in the weeks to come ...  Feel free to continue adding more questions/comments.

How long do you keep yours in?
2-3 weeks. I no longer keep them in for 4 weeks at a time since my current lifestyle requires that I look more "polished".

How many twists do you make?
About 40 twists on average.  Sometimes 30, sometimes 55.

How large do you make them?
Medium to large. Sometimes I make them small. I no longer do jumbo since they don't last as long. I haven't had time for micro/mini twists since my last set.  (My micro twists can be seen here.)

What products do you use?
On twist day, I start off with a Coconut Oil prepoo, followed by a wash with Desert Essence Lemon Tea Tree, followed by deep conditioning with Lekair Cholesterol. I then detangle before rinsing the conditioner. I airdry about 80-90% of the way in plaits. Then I apply a homemade Whipped Shea Butter to my whole head and begin twisting. (The whipped shea butter recipe can be found here.)

Do you do any daily/weekly/monthly maintenance?
Yes. I wear a satin scarf or bonnet nightly to keep the twists moisturized and intact. Before putting on the scarf/bonnet, I put my twists into a french roll or three big twists. (No bobby pins, ouchless bands, or anything; just hair.)  Weekly, I spritz my hair with a little water ... just enough to make it slightly damp and no more than that. Then I reapply the whipped shea butter and wrap my hair with a satin scarf. If it is a wash week, I may redo the perimeter of my twists.

How do you keep your ends moisturized?
I spritz water and apply whipped shea butter weekly (unless it's a wash week). I then follow up by wrapping my hair with a satin scarf until it dries ... otherwise, it'll be frizz galore. Before wrapping my hair, I put my twists in a french roll or three big twists.

How often do you shampoo/condition your hair while it is twisted up?
About 1x every 1-3 weeks, depending on the season. I tend to wash more frequently in the summer versus the rest of the year. I tend to wash more frequently if I've been sweating or if my hair is extremely parched.

Twist Series: Frizz and Knots

More replies coming soon ... :o)

• Do you have alot of shorter strands of hair that contribute to the frizzy look? I noticed that I have alot at the top and middle of my head and was wondering if that is natural or if something is wrong since to me it seems to be increasing in number!

Yes, I do have some short strands that contribute to the frizzy look but not a lot.  I think it's natural to have some shorter hairs whether natural or relaxed.  Given that each hair on our head is in one of three cycles (anagen/growth phase, catagen/transitional phase OR telogen/resting phase), some of the strands may be shorter than others.  Additionally, normal wear and tear can contribute to this outcome.

On the other hand, if the short strands are prevalent or increasing in number, then that is not a good sign and may be the result of breakage or other issues.  Try manipulating the hair less and handling it gentler.

• Second, does having alot of single strand knots at the ends of my hair mean its definitely time for a trim?

I agree with JC's comment here.  If you have the patience (or there aren't too many SSKs), you can do a "search and destroy" whereby you only snip the affected strands.  Otherwise, yes; it's time for a trim.

• Since you mostly keep your hair in twists, are single strand knots a big issue for you?

No, they are not a big issue.  I will admit that as the twists shrink over time, I do get a few SSKs, but they are nowhere near the amount I would get if my hair were left loose.

Someone once asked why I don't dip my ends in water to make them re-curl after twisting.  SSKs is why.  I find that if the ends of my hair shrink up, SSKs are more likely to form.

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention I

TRIMMING.  More answers to your "Growth & Length Retention" questions coming soon ...

• thanks for being so charitable as to provide this info for us thirsty readers! here's my query: since taking down my 10 year old locs, i have "dusted" my ends but not gone for a professional trim. i've worn my hair in some form of natural for 15 years now, but this is my first time really on a "length" journey, so i'm trying to familiarize myself with all the new products, info, and various strategies. As such, I am wondering how crucial regular trimming has been for you.

Regular trimming is very crucial for length retention because it removes damaged ends (e.g, split ends, single-strand knots, etc.).  However, how you trim can determine whether you are actually retaining length or cutting away progress.  I only trim my ends when needed as opposed to following a set schedule.  For more details, on trimming for length retention, here is a repost:

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Freeze! Drop the scissors! Put your hands up! Stop cutting!

Excessive trimming can hinder length retention. If your hair grows six inches a year and you trim half an inch every month, then you are essentially cutting off all your growth progress. In order to retain length, you have to (1) be healthy from the inside out, (2) treat your hair right, and (3) pick up the scissors only when necessary. There is a time to trim that is not dictated by the calendar on the wall but by the health of the ends of your hair.

{May 2009}

TO THE RIGHT: A photo of hair that has not been trimmed in over a year. The ends are not blunt, but they are also not damaged. Trimming for style is your choice, but if you want maximum length retention, then only trim when needed -- when the ends are damaged.

HEALTHY VS DAMAGED ENDS:
Healthy ends are free from splits and other damage. Splits are an indicator of damage to the cuticle and come in all shapes and sizes. Some occur at the very ends of the hair while others form in the middle of a strand. The hair may be appear to be split into two pieces or more. It is a myth that split ends can be repaired; some products may temporarily make them less visible, but splits cannot "heal" themselves and will exist until cut off. If you are taking great care of your hair, you will see fewer splits. Fewer splits = healthier hair. Healthier hair = fewer trims.

CUTTING DAMAGED ENDS:
Even if you've determined that your ends are damaged, a full-on trim may not be required. Search and destroy is a method for only cutting the strands that have splits or other visible damage. Dusting is a method of trimming a very small fraction of hair -- about 1/4 of an inch or less. Search and destroy and dusting are ideal for hair that exhibits a small amount of damaged ends. A full-on trim is needed when a large portion of the hair's ends are damaged.

MORE READS:
MINIMIZING SPLIT ENDS (great article btw)
SEARCH & DESTROY AND DUSTING

Twist Series: Washing & Matting

• How do you wash your hair when it's twisted?

I use diluted shampoo, do one lather only, and focus on massaging the scalp.  I try not to manipulate the roots and strands much.  This helps to minimize matting.  (When I feel like it, which is rare, I will put my twists into 6-8 plaits prior to washing.)  More details below ...

After every wash, I airdry my twists in two big frenchbraids.  This helps to minimize frizzing.
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• Hi! Thank you so much for the twist series. I'm making a twist regimen of my own and it helps to see yours. I have a question-- When you say "twist for 3 weeks and 1-2 washes", do you mean 1-2 washes after the inital wash (the same day you twist your hair)? I want to avoid matting.

Yes, I do.  After the initial wash/twist day, I usually wait 2 weeks then do my first wash.  On week three,  I do my second wash.  (When I'm able to, I wait the full three weeks then do my first wash.)
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• weekly, i washed my hair in braids (10-15) and detangled every two weeks. most of the time it was fine, but sometimes i found that the base of the plait was matted. i could feel it -- straight + whatever that was + straight.  how do you avoid matting at the base of your twists/plaits?

For my hair, it really comes down to a) how I wash and b) how often I wash.

a) How I wash: The method of washing is more important than how often you wash.  Avoid manipulating the roots much.  I purposely use the shampoo that I use because it lifts the oils/dirt without me having to do much work.  I don't massage the scalp haphazardly while washing.  I kind of do a pinch method ... pinch the base of each twist with my thumb and index finger.  I also focus on cleansing the visible scalp between sections.  (Let me know if this makes sense; otherwise, I'll try to post a photo the next time.)

b) How often I wash: I keep washes to a minimum - about 1-2 washes during a twist session.

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention III

• how can you protect your ends while in twists? 

First and foremost, wear a satin bonnet or scarf to bed.  Cotton pillowcases can make the ends of your twists dry and brittle.  Next, make sure your ends are sufficiently moisturized.  Lastly, if your twists brush your shoulders (or beyond), pin it up during the day.  This minimizes snagging and drying of the ends from contact with your clothes.

• ... What products should you use? 

Use products that leave your twists sufficiently moisturized.  This includes a good deep conditioner and moisturizer on the day you twist.  Also use products that do not contain humectants (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol) if you want to keep shrinkage at bay for as long as possible.  Other than these two conditions, use what works for you and what you like.  (I use LeKair Cholesterol for deep conditioning and a shea butter mix to seal after rinsing.)

• ... and should end papers be used to protect ends? 

No, end papers are not necessary.

• ... Also how long should you keep twists in for optimal growth? Should you keep a style in one, two or three weeks

For optimal growth, twists should be worn for as long as your hair can handle.  The less you manipulate your hair via styling, the less breakage, and the more length retention.  Ideally, twists should be worn for 2-5 weeks at a time with minimal washing (to prevent locking and meshing).  Find a duration that works best for your hair.  (I wear mine for 3-4 weeks at a time.)

Twist Series: Conditioning and Re-Twisting

1. Do you treat the twists as you would your normal detangled hair when washing/co-washing? i.e wash -> deep condition -> LOC method. 

My answer: Yes, I do.  (Backtrack: "Twist Series: Washing & Matting".)  After washing, I apply conditioner to my twists down to my ends.  I let the conditioner sit for however long (15-45 minutes) and then rinse.  When rinsing, it helps to squeeze my twists in order to squeeze out most of the conditioner.  I then plop my hair to help it air dry and moisturize + seal.
If my hair is not that dirty and/or I want to preserve the "neatness" of my twists a little longer, I sometimes use this washing method instead.  For this latter washing method, it is very important that I use thoroughly diluted shampoo rather than shampoo alone.

2. How do you re-do the twists you mentioned? Do you unravel, detangle, re-twist and then wash all of them or do you wash first then unravel and re-twist? 

My answer: I wash them first, allow them to air dry to about 60-80%, then unravel and re-twist them. When un-raveling them, I also make sure to remove any shed hair.