Hair Diary || Braid-Out to Stretched Bun

Chunky braid-out using eight braids on wet hair.

After some time wearing wash-n-gos, I decided to wear a braid-out for a few days and then a stretched bun for a day.  To go into the braid-out, I finger-combed on wet, conditioner-soaked hair and made eight braids.  Then I let my hair air-dry and undid the braids for the braid-out.

And now for more hair photos:

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Bun on hair stretched from the braid-out.  No combs.  No brush.

Hair Diary || Ombre Color for the Summer

The resulting hair color.

My red highlights from about 2.5 years ago had grown out and faded gradually and so I've been back to my natural beautiful black color (with a few faded sections) for some time.  With summer approaching and my itch for a change intensifying, I decided to dye my ends brown for an ombre effect.  The brown did not come out as light as I thought it would but it is growing on me.  I may or may not decide to go lighter in a few months.  We will see.

Circa January 2011.  My red highlights months were done circa November 2010.

Clairol Textures & Tones is a popular brand among naturals, largely because it does not dry out and damage our strands as other dyes can.  I don't know whether I like the product yet.  We'll see how the color fairs over the next few months.  (I let the color set for 35 minutes before rinsing.) 

This is how I achieved the ombre.
I figured it would be easiest to work from  eight big braids and apply the color to the ends (which I left unbraided).

The result.  It looks more subtle in person.

The result.  The flash enhances the color.  It looks more subtle and less red in person.

It looks more subtle in person.

It looks more subtle in person.

Playlist for mid

Loo - Wavy

Currently playing: 2 weeks of semi-straight natural hair

Sounds like: Leela James

Chorus: Nightly plaits to maintain the style, daily buns, moisturize as needed

Leela James

Loo - Wavy Bun

Twists Series: Maintenance II

FUTURE TOPIC: The Method I ...

"I have short hair (about 4 to 5inches) and whenever I twist my hair it twists up on itself so they look like they're sticking out all over my head. How do I get them to all lie straight down?"

I had a similar situation when I was at that stage.  What helped was to twist my hair wet as opposed to dry.  Doing that allowed for the water to weigh down the twists.  Once the twists airdried, they would remain down with the help of wrapping with a scarf nightly.  The longer your hair grows, the less they will stick out.  When I hit about 8-9 inches, my twists no longer stuck out.

"How do you keep them moist?"

I spritz weekly with water until damp and then apply whipped shea butter.  I also wear updos 95% of the time, which involves tucking the ends of my twists under.  

"What do you do to the ends when they are dry or ragged looking (or is it just time for a trim!?)"

•When my ends are dry, I revive them with water and whipped shea butter.  Sometimes, my dry ends call for a fresh wash.

••When they get ragged looking and even thin, I tend to trim them.  Raggedness sometimes implies damaged ends.  Additionally, such ends may cause damage to the healthy ones.  Ragged, thin ends make it harder for me to undo my twists and easier for tangles and knots to form.  Thus, I trim them away.  In between trims, I try to minimize tasks that contribute to thin, ragged ends ... such as impatience during detangling and twist takedown, sleeping on cotton pillowcases without a protective barrier (e.g., satin scarf), etc.

"Is it more important to not touch the hair in the twists for say a week minimum or to keep it in a style that will retain moisture and protect the ends? I ask this since the front of my hair especially gets extremely fuzzy after 2 to 3 days of fresh twists!"

•In order to retain length, it is more important to wear styles that retain moisture and protect the ends than to not touch one's twists for a week. It is more important to pin up the twists daily and take it down nightly than to wear the pinned style 24-7 and risk hairline damage.  It is more important to touch the hair with moisture and risk fuzz than to not touch the hair and risk dryness.  In other words, properly caring for your twists may require some touching within the week, which is fine.  Health supersedes no fuzz.
••For a future topic, I'll talk about how to twist such that fuzz is minimized.

"Did you experience alot of matting and knotting when leaving the twists in for even short periods of time?"

Short answer: It depends.  What I've learned is that I get the most matting and knotting when: 1) I wash more than twice during a twist period and 2) don't detangle thoroughly between twist sessions.  Even if it's a short period in twists, matting and knotting will occur if I do #1 and/or #2.  With my current regimen (twists for 3 weeks, 1-2x washes), I get no matting and very little knotting.

"I noticed some ppl do twists for say a week then use the twist out on the weekend...does this act as being counter - productive?"

I used this method during my in-between stage (between TWA and BAA) and it worked out well.  It's ideal for those who like to wear their hair out but do not want to sacrifice the health and length retention. It is only counter-productive if one is pinched for time; such a method requires weekly detangling and re-twisting.  Other than the time factor, it is a good method.

Twist Series: The Method I

More replies coming soon ... :o)

• When you put in your shea butter mixture can you indicate how much exactly you put, because I find that when I do my hair I can't lean up on anything afterwards...lol Should it be a dime sized amount or should I not worry about the oil slick!
• Can you show a picture to give any indication to how you part the twists?
• When you say that you "reapply the whipped shea butter" weekly.. do you just rub the butter along the twisted hair? Or untwist, apply shea butter, and then retwist?
• I find when I go to remoisturize my twists, whether I re-wet my hair and apply moisturizer or just apply the moisturizer alone, my twists are sooo frizzy and fuzzy afterwards. How can I prevent this? I have about 6 inches of hair just to give you an idea.

1. After washing, deep conditioning, and detangling, I plop my hair (while in 10-12 jumbo twists) in a towel. (Time: 1-2 hrs.)

2. After plopping, I undo each jumbo twist and apply a half-dollar-sized amount of whipped shea butter to each section.  Then I redo each jumbo twist and airdry (in a satin scarf) until 80-90% dry. (Time: several hours.)  I suggest applying enough butter to seal your hair and not so much to coat it.   

Plop, moisturize, then airdry in jumbo twists under scarf.

3. Once airdried 80-90% of the way, I begin to twist my hair.  I take down a jumbo twist and begin parting.  I find it easiest to part a horizontal section and then grab-and-go within that section.  I make smaller parts along the perimeter ... larger parts within the perimeter.  (Twist time: 1-3 hrs, depending on size.)  If needed, a small amount of whipped shea butter is reapplied to the ends of the twists only.

Part horizontally, then grab and go.

Smaller parts near nape.  (Not too small though.)

Long, slender parts along hairline.  (Too small = bad for my edges.)

4. When I reapply the whipped shea butter weekly (after a quick spritz with water), I just rub the butter along the twisted hair from the mid-shaft to the ends.  Afterwards, I immediately put my twists in 1-2 frenchbraids and wrap with a satin scarf to combat frizz formation.  Once the hair has "set", I take off the satin scarf. (Time: 30 minutes - 1hr.)

Playlist for febuary

Summer weather equals more frequent washes equals more frequent twist sets.  (Down from 3-4 weeks of wearing a set to 2 weeks.)  For summer hair care tips, click here.

On repeat: Small/medium twists pulled back

Sounds like: Lauryn Hill and her locs

Interlude: weekly washes & moisturizing, bi-weekly detangling & redo

Oils, Aloe Vera, and Whipped Hair Butter

It's that time of year again to mix another whipped hair butter!  (My batch ran out this weekend.)  

Ingredients (all are moisturizing):

• unrefined shea butter (softening)
• coconut oil (protection [1] [2])
• olive oil
• safflower OR grapeseed oil (high in fatty acids)
• aloe vera gel
• essential oil (for fragrance, optional)

Instructions:

Read my earlier post on the body butter mixture; the instructions are very similar.  For every cup of shea butter, use 1/4 a cup of olive oil, 1/8 a cup of coconut oil, 1/8 a cup of safflower/grapeseed oil, and a few tablespoons of aloe vera gel.  Of course you can tweak this mixture for a creamier or firmer consistency.  Feel free add drops of your favorite essential oil for fragrance!

FOR THE MIXOLOGISTS:

More whipped butter recipes can be found here.

Countdown to MBL Update

Despite a salon setback months ago, MBL is in sight (or already here?).  This length check was taken the first week of August 2010.  It is further proof that black hair can grow.

So what helped me reach this goal?

• Staying DIY (do-it-yourself)
• Coconut oil prepoos
• Leaving my hair alone (i.e., protective styling 2-4 weeks at a time)
• Regular detangling (not too frequent and not to seldom)
• Twists galore

Reaching WSL is next on my list!

What's Your FALL Regimen?

With Autumn around the corner, will you adjust your hair care regimen?  If so, what changes will you make?  Longer protective styles?  Fewer washes? ...

Loo's SUMMER Regimen
•Prepoo, Wash, and DC every 1-2 weeks
•Airdry
•Twist every 2-3 weeks
•Moisturize weekly

Loo's FALL Regimen
•Prepoo, Wash, and DC every 2-3 weeks
•Airdry
•Twist every 3-4 weeks
•Moisturize weekly

Twist Series: Maintenance I

It's official!  The twist series has begun.  Today, I start by answering some of your questions.  The remaining questions will be answered in the weeks to come ...  Feel free to continue adding more questions/comments.

How long do you keep yours in?
2-3 weeks. I no longer keep them in for 4 weeks at a time since my current lifestyle requires that I look more "polished".

How many twists do you make?
About 40 twists on average.  Sometimes 30, sometimes 55.

How large do you make them?
Medium to large. Sometimes I make them small. I no longer do jumbo since they don't last as long. I haven't had time for micro/mini twists since my last set.  (My micro twists can be seen here.)

What products do you use?
On twist day, I start off with a Coconut Oil prepoo, followed by a wash with Desert Essence Lemon Tea Tree, followed by deep conditioning with Lekair Cholesterol. I then detangle before rinsing the conditioner. I airdry about 80-90% of the way in plaits. Then I apply a homemade Whipped Shea Butter to my whole head and begin twisting. (The whipped shea butter recipe can be found here.)

Do you do any daily/weekly/monthly maintenance?
Yes. I wear a satin scarf or bonnet nightly to keep the twists moisturized and intact. Before putting on the scarf/bonnet, I put my twists into a french roll or three big twists. (No bobby pins, ouchless bands, or anything; just hair.)  Weekly, I spritz my hair with a little water ... just enough to make it slightly damp and no more than that. Then I reapply the whipped shea butter and wrap my hair with a satin scarf. If it is a wash week, I may redo the perimeter of my twists.

How do you keep your ends moisturized?
I spritz water and apply whipped shea butter weekly (unless it's a wash week). I then follow up by wrapping my hair with a satin scarf until it dries ... otherwise, it'll be frizz galore. Before wrapping my hair, I put my twists in a french roll or three big twists.

How often do you shampoo/condition your hair while it is twisted up?
About 1x every 1-3 weeks, depending on the season. I tend to wash more frequently in the summer versus the rest of the year. I tend to wash more frequently if I've been sweating or if my hair is extremely parched.

Hair Playlist for the Holidays!

Currently playing: 4 weeks of flat twists into twist-hawk

Sounds like: Willow Smith (whip my hair)

Chorus: Bi-weekly washes, moisturize as needed

Countdown to MBL ... Let's Grow!

A new series documenting my journey to longer, healthier hair. It'll take coconut oil, twists, low manipulation, and internal health to get there! I've got 30 weeks.

WEEK 3/30

I'm wrapping up week #1 of a new set of twists. The other night, I did my usual wash routine and airdried overnight. Yesterday I redid the perimeter of my twists.

The twist challenge started on Tuesday. My goal for the end of the challenge (December 22) is to grow and retain two inches of hair.

I'm starting slow on the green smoothie challenge but I'll fix that. I made a couple banana blueberry smoothies without the green. (The full recipe can be found here.) This weekend, I'll get down to the "real" green smoothies by adding spinach, kale, basil, etc.

**The style above is a twist fishtail with a twistout pompadour on my hair. To create the pompadour, I undid about five twists in the front and pinned down the resulting twistout. The fishtail is simply a french braid created by overbraiding (not underbraiding) and tucking the end under. The funky look is great for a night out without having to take down all the twists. When I'm done with the look, I just retwist those five sections in front.


MORE GREEN SMOOTHIE RECIPES

Countdown to MBL ... Let's Grow!

A new series documenting my journey to longer, healthier hair. It'll take coconut oil, twists, low manipulation, and internal health to get there! I've got 30 weeks.

WEEK 4/30

So I haven't combed my hair in four weeks now? I can't remember ... I know it's been at least two weeks. The plan remains: a fingers-only routine for the rest of the year. The few times that I have visited the comb, my kinks have screamed for mercy. It doesn't matter whether my hair is drenched in conditioner and/or oil or whether I use the widest teeth in the world; they can't handle such manipulation anymore. Stretching my hair helps to ease the process, but even still, a few unstretched strands fight the comb. I've faced it; This mass of kinks just isn't meant to be combed, and I'm fine with that.

I just wrapped up week #2 in these twists, and I'm feeling confident that my hair won't lock this go around. What's different? Well, I'm not overdoing the washing this time. Four weeks of twists with four washes is my limit. What else? I'm redoing my twists in the front and back weekly. Those areas tend to lock faster (and look more frizzy) by the week's end. My hair can tolerate 4 weeks in twists so long as there is a good balance -- no neglect and no overmanipulation.

Grocery list: cucumbers, more spinach, celery, salmon, tomato sauce, more bananas

WORTHWHILE LABELS TO CHECK OUT:
COMBS & BRUSHES
LENGTH RETENTION
NATURAL HAIR
BUNNING

2016 Hair Buys!

If you followed the blog last year, you may remember my Honey Lemon highlight experiment. Well since then, I've been wanting to try henna coloring and 2010 is the year to do it!

Pictured above is my hair with henna. Since I am a first-time user, I didn't want to botch my hair so I bought an easy-to-use Henna Melt kit from www.thehairshebang.etsy.com. I recommend this kit because it comes already mixed with the necessary ingredients to give you a nice wine burgundy color. The seller offers different embossments, including flowers, herbs, etc. (The photo below is an example.) Henna itself also contributes to the hair's natural shine and thickness.

I used the mix on clean, damp hair and left it on for an hour. Then I rinsed, did a light shampoo, and deep conditioned. The result? My hair now has a subtle natural-looking burgundy tone to it, especially the sections that were previously highlighted with the honey lemon treatment. I love it and will post pics soon. For those wanting a more dramatic color change, be sure to leave the henna mix on for much longer.

UPDATE - THE RESULT (Actual color is more subtle):

Other 2010 Hair Buys:
Jane Carter Nourish & Shine - so far, I like the mango smell and shine.
Hair One - I like the conditioner cleanser concept. If you are not a fan of cones, though, steer clear.

My Workout Hair Routine!

I came across a few posts and also received a question about workout hair routines. There is no one routine that works for everyone, but it is key to: 1) keep your hair out of the way and 2) cleanse your scalp regularly.

HOW I WEAR MY HAIR
I spend 99% of my time in twists, so I just carry them into the workout day. I usually put the twists in a bun, pin them up, or put them into one french braid before I workout.

AFTER THE WORKOUT
This depends on how much I sweat. On light days (e.g., yoga days), I don't do anything special to my hair afterwards. However, on heavy days (e.g., aerobic days), I aim to cleanse my scalp with a q-tip and witch hazel. Now, am I good about doing this? Rarely. When time becomes a factor, I make a spritz of water, lavender oil, and tea tree oil and spray on my scalp and hair. (Lavender oil is said to have antibacterial properties while tea tree oil is said to have both antibacterial and antifungal properties.) I don't recommend this as a substitute for cleansing, but it works for me.

OTHER OPTIONS
Workout styles: buns, braids, ponytails, cornrows, or hair under a silk scarf
Post-workout cleansing: co-wash, dry shampoo, ACV rinse, or wash

Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

************************
FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Countdown to MBL ... Let's Grow!

A new series documenting my journey to longer, healthier hair. It'll take coconut oil, twists, low manipulation, and internal health to get there! I've got 30 weeks.

WEEK 2/30

The new wash day regimen is still working out well for me. My hair is doing just fine with a simple prepoo, wash, 5-minute condition, and seal.

As for twisting, I've switched from doing that weekly to bi-weekly to tri-weekly for the sake of time management and low manipulation. On the weeks that I wash but don't twist, I'll just redo the perimeter. That's the plan for now. Eventually, I'll work my way up to wearing a set of twists for four to five weeks with minimal takedown woes. Thanks to all the nappturals (you know who are) who shared their routines with me!

Twist Routine Recap:
*Twist tri-weekly
*Wash weekly (see details here)
*Redo edges/nape weekly

Last week, I splurged on bananas, blueberries, carrots, red lettuce, tuna, roasted nori, celery, and other health goodies. I noticed I've been slacking on my vegetable/fruit intake for two weeks now so I thought I'd get back on track. I'm also learning how to make my own sushi after being inspired by a veteran napptural who's wise in the ways of raw dishes (as well as hair care).

The twist challenge starts in a few days. Yay! I also jumped aboard a green smoothie challenge. Now this should be fun too!

How's your healthy hair journey going?

Countdown to MBL ... Let's Grow!

A new series documenting my journey to longer, healthier hair. It'll take coconut oil, twists, low manipulation, and internal health to get there! I've got 30 weeks.

WEEK 1/30

The coconut oil prepoos seem to be working well already. My ends feel stronger than before I started them. Twisting on dry hair has also decreased my knotting and tangling.

I joined a twist challenge that starts in September. It will give me the motivation and accountability I need to maintain this protective styling routine. The challenge should also be loads of fun!

This Sunday I continue my new weekly washing routine so that MBL can be a reality in thirty weeks:

- Prepoo with Coconut Oil for 20 minutes
- Wash with Creme of Nature (green bottle)
- Condition with V05 for 5 minutes
- Rinse 80-90% of the conditioner out
- Seal with Coconut Oil and homemade Whipped Shea Butter mixture
- Airdry
- Re-twist (big twists) on dry, stretched hair the next day & wear for the week
*EDITED: I now retwist every 3-4 weeks

I normally detangle with a comb 1x a month or so, but now I'm aiming for a no comb routine. We'll see how that goes.

This Sunday I also need to restock on wild salmon, red lettuce, and carrots.

Playlist for March

New favorite: high twistout puff (March 22-28)

Sounds like: Ms. Shingai (Noisettes)

Background instrumental: bi-weekly/weekly washes, weekly moisturizing, sleep with a satin bonnet

Shingai

Retired from repeat: big twists (March 1-21)

Chemically Highlight Natural Hair?

{Jordin Sparks}

In late November, I chemically highlighted my hair for the first time since going natural.  After approximately seven weeks, my hair is doing just fine.  How do you know if chemical highlighting is for you?  Well, for one, I DO NOT recommend it unless you have thoroughly contemplated and researched the process, alternatives, and consequences.  Here are some questions worth considering before taking the plunge:

WHAT ARE THE RISKS?
Read this previous post on the chemical process and potential damage from misuse.  Do your own research as well.

WHY CHEMICAL HIGHLIGHTS?
Why do you want chemical highlights?  Can the color you are seeking be achieved by healthier, more natural means (e.g., henna, honey, cinnamon)? What about temporary alternatives (e.g., color extensions)?

IS YOUR HAIR HEALTHY?
If your hair is damaged and weak, I recommend staying away from chemical highlights.  If your hair is healthy, are you willing to suffer any setbacks or consequences that may come with highlighting?  Split ends? Increased porosity?

DO YOU HENNA?
Do you plan to henna after highlighting? Have you hennaed and now plan to chemically highlight?  If so, there are some factors (e.g., length of time between dye job and henna treatment, quality of henna used, etc.) you should consider.  Read this link and do further research.

Stay tuned for a post on PRECAUTIONS, MAINTENANCE, ETC.

{Highlights achieved with a semi-permanent commercial dye.}

WHY I DID IT: I'm an artist at heart, and one of the ways I express myself is through my hair.  I was an avid highlighter before going natural but played it safe after the big chop through now in order to achieve certain health and length goals.  Now that I'm at a comfortable length, I am willing to take a risk and return to highlighting.  The color I chose is a dramatic, loud red versus the subtle, deep red that henna produces.