Tips for a Sensitive Hairline

Like some of you, I have a sensitive hairline. Do not be fooled by the thick edges. Lol. My hairline has had a couple weak moments over the years, so I consistently monitor the area and give it extra TLC to keep it healthy. Here are some tips that have helped me and may help you:

○ Minimize pulling the hair back too tight
Pulling the hair back tautly causes tension along the hairline and may result in broken hairs or hair loss over time. Styles in which the hair is pulled back should be worn minimally and/or loosely. Because of my sensitive hairline, I opt for loose, pinned updos that allow my hairline to breathe and stay away from tight buns. If the style hurts, then listen to your hairline.

○ Opt for a polyester/silk pillow case or bonnet
Polyester/silk scarves worn while you sleep can damage the hairline if tied tightly. Your edges will be happier if you sleep on a polyester/silk pillow case or wrap the scarf (if it's large enough) around your pillow. Another option is to sleep in a polyester/silk bonnet, but beware of the ones that expose the elastic. Whichever method you choose, you can wrap a scarf around your edges for a few minutes in the morning to lay them down, undo the scarf, and you're good to go. It's healthier than sleeping with a scarf around your edges all night long. (NOTE: Polyester and silk come in satin, charmeuse, chiffon, and other weaves. Opt for satin or charmeuse, which are smooth weaves.)

○ Refrain from sleeping in a ponytail, bun, or updo
If your hairline is sensitive, this is the worst thing you can do it. Trust me; I've been there. As you toss and turn at night, pulling can occur and your hairline can suffer. Some women can get away with this, but if you have a sensitive hairline, it is best to just sleep with your hair wrapped (in a bonnet) or in several loose and big plaits/twists.

○ Apply natural butters/oils and then massage 2-5x a week
This is particularly important for a recovering hairline. Natural butters (e.g., mango, shea) and oils (e.g., coconut, olive, castor) contain substances that can soothe and nourish the scalp along the edges. For example, shea butter and mango butter contain Vitamin A, which plays an important part in the growth and maintenance of the follicles. Additionally, massaging the hairline may stimulate growth.


More tips include:

○ Avoid wearing elastic headbands, bandanas, tight scarves too frequently
Once in a while is fine, but daily is probably not. Opt for loose scarves instead elastic headbands when you can.

○ Redo the braids/twists along the edges weekly/biweekly
Extensions or not, this is essential for a sensitive hairline.

○ Don't make the braids/twists too small and tight along the hairline

Boar Brush = Damage to Your Edges?

I was on youtube some months ago when I came across a number of educational videos by a popular trichologist. One video, in particular, addressed the harmful tools we use on our hair versus healthier options. I was already aware of some of the tools that were discussed, but one surprise was that a soft boar brush -- a tool many of us swear by -- is more detrimental to the edges than a rattail comb. A surprise, but well reasoned. Just ask yourself, would you rather move bristles across sensitive skin ... or would you rather move a smooth object? Check out the video link below to see what I mean. After watching the trichologist's demonstration, I gradually weened myself off my beloved boar bristle brush.

**From her video, I'd also infer that the Denman brush is more gentle on the edges than a boar brush.

VIDEO ON HAIR TOOLS

Nape Breakage?

For some people the nape hair grows just fine. For others, the nape area suffers constant breakage, stunted growth, and is the most fragile section of the scalp.

Before 2007, my nape hair never surpassed two to three inches (except for during my childhood years). It was severely damaged from overprocessing and dryness and would seem to break the instant it was touched. In 2007, I began to seriously address my nape breakage by stretching the period between chemical relaxers and paying extra attention to the area as I conditioned and moisturized (i.e., extra TLC). With these changes and more, my nape hair was gradually restored to good health. Nowadays, it has reached a length I never imagined it could. (In 2008, I officially went natural, but that isn't to say that one needs to do so to have a healthy growing nape.)

Do you have nape growth issues? If so, any of the following could be the source of the problem. Eliminate that source and your nape hair will be restored to good health and growth.

Causes of stunted/slow growth of nape hair:
*poor internal health
*dryness
*under conditioned
*breakage from tight headbands, scarves, etc.
*over-brushing
*over-processing (raise your hand if you relax that section first)
*friction from shirt, scarf, coat, couch
*too much tension (e.g., braiding nape hair too tightly)
*inadequate neutralization after relaxing
*heat damage from trying to get that nape hair straight
*sleeping on the back of head

Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

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FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Basic Regimen & Products for Healthy Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Tips for Stretching Relaxers or Transitioning

*Strengthen the demarcation line
The demarcation line is the point at which the new growth meets the chemically straigthened hair. Keep this section strong with protein-based conditioning and you will minimize breakage.

*Wear low-manipulation & protective styles
Low manipulation styles include braidouts, twistouts, rollersets, strawsets, and other styles that require minimal styling of the hair afterwards.
Protective styles include buns, braids, twists, cornrows under a wig or sew-in, and other styles that involve almost no styling of the hair afterwards.

*Moisturize regularly & thoroughly
Dry hair is much more prone to breakage and fragility than well-moisturized hair. Look for water-based moisturizers.

*Wash in sections
Especially if your hair is on the longer side. This will reduce tangling, thus reducing breakage.

*Invest in a wide tooth comb
Wide tooth combs are gentler on the demarcation line than brushes and smaller combs.

More tips coming soon ...