Winterize Your Conditioner!

Okay, it's not officially Winter yet, but it doesn't hurt to prepare ...

My obsession with shea butter does not stop at hair and body butters but extends to deep conditioners.  A few tablespoons will infuse an inexpensive conditioner with moisture and slip.  Try adding some melted shea butter to V05, Suave, or White Rain ... or mixing it with honey, egg, oil, or avocado to deep condition your hair this Winter ... and even Autumn!

Silk Amino Acids - Smooth and Shimmery Hair

What comes to mind when someone says "silk"?  Smooth.  Shimmery.  Soft.  Shine.  Well, imagine bringing all these characteristics to your hair.  How?  Silk amino acids (SAAs).

SAAs are hydrolyzed from silk protein and help to impart smoothness and shine to the hair and skin.  In the hair care community, they are a popular addition to leave-ins and deep conditioners.  In the skin care community, they may be added to lotions and moisturizers to achieve silky skin.

SAAs are on my 2011 wish list, so unfortunately, I do not have a personal review to share with you all.  However, the following links are good places to start for anyone interested in experimenting with SAAs:

ABOUT SILK AMINO ACIDS
BUYING SILK POWDER
BUYING LIQUID SILK (contains preservatives)

Oh Honey, Honey ... Deep Conditioners

Honey is a natural humectant (substance that absorbs and retains moisture).  Add it to a conditioner or mix it with oils and other substances to enhance moisturization and slip.  Here are some recipes you can try:

LOO's RECIPE (good for moisture & detangling)
1 avocado
3 tbs honey
2 tbs olive oil
1 tps apple cider vinegar (optional)
*Instructions: Cut up one avocado, mash with a mixing spoon, and then add the honey and olive oil. Use a hand blender to blend all the ingredients thoroughly (so that no avocado bits remain). Continue to add olive oil until the mixture reaches your desired consistency.  Apply to hair and allow to set for 20-60 minutes. Detangle and rinse.
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BUDGET BLEND (moisture & detangling)
1/2 cup cheap conditioner (e.g., V05, Suave, LustraSilk, Lekair)
3 tbs honey
2 tps olive or coconut oil (optional)
*Instructions: Stir the ingredients together and apply to hair.  Allow to set for 20-60 minutes.  Detangle and rinse.

HONEY CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
1 tsp honey
2 Tbs olive oil
1 egg yolk
Instructions

SESAME & COCONUT PROTEIN CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
2 tbs olive oil
2 tbs light sesame oil
2 eggs
2 tbs coconut milk
2 tbs honey
1 tsp coconut oil
Instructions

STRENGTH BUILDING DEEP CONDITIONER (strength & thickness)
1 tbs virgin olive oil
2 tbs honey
1 tbs buttermilk
1 tbs natural unbleached flour
Instructions

COCONUT HONEY DEEP CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
4 tbs coconut oil
2 tbs honey
Instructions

New Shampoo ... Let's Talk pH

*The truth about pH and our hair:
The pH of our hair is about 5. Some sources say the pH of shampoos should range between 6.0-8.0 while others say the ideal pH is 5.5. Another source suggests between 4.0-7.0. Whatever the ideal number, the truth is the pH of our hair is 5 for a reason ... and to knock that balance way off can cause problems (e.g., dryness, roughness, cuticle lifting, scalp fungal growth, etc.).

MORE READS:
pH AND OUR HAIR - NATURAL HAVEN
pH AND OUR HAIR - CLASS PROJECT
LIST OF SHAMPOOS and pH
BENEFITS of LOW pH

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*Why no poo no more?
My no poo routine consisted of using 1 part baking soda, 2-3 parts conditioner, and 3 parts water. I loved the mixture because it cleansed my scalp really well while not stripping my hair. However, this routine is nixed in light of the following informative sources - Kimmaytube's pH video and thenaturalhaven's baking soda post. I knew beforehand that baking soda was alkaline (i.e., high pH), but I did not know that though I diluted it with conditioner (slightly acidic) and water (neutral), it was still pretty high. I tested the solution myself and saw a whopping pH of 9. Even though I follow up with an ACV rinse (pH of 4), I don't know what long-term effect this routine will have on my hair and scalp ... so I'll stop now.

*My new shampoo:
I don't have a staple seeing as I'm just now switching back to poos. Right now, this Desert Essence is up to bat and Giovanni is on deck. Perhaps, Alba will make an experience too. Whatever the shampoo, it must have these qualities:

-max pH of 7 (after dilution in water),
-mainly natural,
-no sulfates,
-no silicones,
-no EDTA,
-super cleansing for the scalp (hence why I bought "for oily hair")

More on Desert Essence Organics Lemon Tea Tree Shampoo:
You smelled it right! I will be reviewing this in the near future. Any vegans or vegetarians out there will be happy to know that this shampoo is 100% vegan. The Lemon Tee Tree shampoo boasts containing: jojoba seed oil to loosen and dissolve excess oil and build-up on the scalp and hair, high-quality Austrailian Tea Tree Oil to provide antiseptic qualities, sugar cleansers, and more.

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For those who want to check out the Desert Essence Organics line, here you go:

Desert Essence Hair

Retaining the Hair You Grow

Moisture, moisture, moisture!

Dry hair translates into hair that is more susceptible to breakage. Hair that has a sufficient level of moisture is more pliable and more able to withstand mechanical manipulation (combing, styling, etc.). Thus, moisture is a key factor to retaining length.

How do you know whether you hair is dry?
If your hair feels supple, then it has a good moisture content. Think flexible, elastic, and pliant. Rough, brittle, crispy, hard hair could be an indication of dryness and/or another issue (e.g., structural damage, etc.).

Is your dryness linked to a problem with moisture retention?
A healthy strand of hair will retain moisture really well for a good period of time. I have heard a stylist mention 48 hours as the magic number; whether this is true or not, I am not sure. Given my personal experience with my hair in damaged vs. healthy states, the number seems feasible. In my opinion, if you find yourself experiencing dryness within one day of a fresh wash & condition, you may want to:

1) evaluate your products and/or regimen,
2) review your diet,
3) assess whether you have hard water,
4) determine if the dryness is medically related,
OR
5) investigate high porosity as a potential issue.

A lot of articles and sites address the importance of porosity as it relates to moisture retention, protein/moisture balance, and more. View the links below for just a handful of these sources. In the mean time, keep in mind that if you want to retain the hair you grow, you must maintain a proper moisture level.

MORE READS:
POROSITY (all you need to know)
PROTEIN/MOISTURE BALANCE
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

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This is a repost. Originally posted July 6, 2009.

Study || Hard Water Impact On Hair

Hard water metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layer.  A study published in 2011 indicated that these metals can affect certain hair properties, which include:

- stiffening of hair strand
- reduction of combing forces
- improvement of ability to hold a style in virgin hair
- reduction of ability to hold a style in bleached hair

Additionally, certain variables affect the uptake of hard water metals by the hair, such as the:

- condition of the hair (e.g., chemically damaged)
- pH of the water
- level of water hardness


ABSTRACTS:
STRUCTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF HARD WATER METALS (2011)
UPTAKE OF HARD WATER METALS BY HAIR (2011)

Nape Breakage?

For some people the nape hair grows just fine. For others, the nape area suffers constant breakage, stunted growth, and is the most fragile section of the scalp.

Before 2007, my nape hair never surpassed two to three inches (except for during my childhood years). It was severely damaged from overprocessing and dryness and would seem to break the instant it was touched. In 2007, I began to seriously address my nape breakage by stretching the period between chemical relaxers and paying extra attention to the area as I conditioned and moisturized (i.e., extra TLC). With these changes and more, my nape hair was gradually restored to good health. Nowadays, it has reached a length I never imagined it could. (In 2008, I officially went natural, but that isn't to say that one needs to do so to have a healthy growing nape.)

Do you have nape growth issues? If so, any of the following could be the source of the problem. Eliminate that source and your nape hair will be restored to good health and growth.

Causes of stunted/slow growth of nape hair:
*poor internal health
*dryness
*under conditioned
*breakage from tight headbands, scarves, etc.
*over-brushing
*over-processing (raise your hand if you relax that section first)
*friction from shirt, scarf, coat, couch
*too much tension (e.g., braiding nape hair too tightly)
*inadequate neutralization after relaxing
*heat damage from trying to get that nape hair straight
*sleeping on the back of head

No Poo Review: Baking Soda with Conditioner

Definition of no poo: cleansing of the hair using an alternative method to shampooing.

It's going on two months since I switched to a no-poo regimen, and so far it's been going well; my hair feels clean, softer, and requires less moisturization. There are numerous ways to go the no-poo route, but what's been working for me is the combination of baking soda and conditioner diluted with water for washing + minimal use of products. Here are the main benefits of a no-poo regimen:

*eliminates the drying, harsh effects of shampoo (particularly commercial shampoos containing sulfates)
*in some cases, eliminates the deep conditioning step
*inexpensive - your wallet will be happy

What I like about this baking soda technique over other no-poo methods is a) it removes buildup, dirt, etc. from my scalp and hair really well while b) retaining the moisture and softness of my tresses. Here's a rundown of what I do:

1) Mix 3 parts water, 2-3 parts conditioner, and 1 part baking soda in an applicator bottle
2) Rinse hair under lukewarm water for 1-2 minutes
3) Apply diluted baking soda conditioner to scalp ONLY
4) Massage scalp thoroughly for 5 minutes
5) Rinse scalp and hair thoroughly
6) Follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse, if necessary

Afterwards, I condition with V05 for 2-5 minutes, rinse, then moisturize as usual. A no-poo regimen is ideal for hair that is prone to dryness. With this method, it is important to minimize, or even eliminate, the use of heavy products which require the use of a shampoo for removal (e.g., products containing silicones). An occasional clarifier or shampoo may still be necessary , but it depends on the person and actual technique used.

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TUTORIAL, ETC.:
YOUTUBE VID OF BAKING SODA WASH: (She uses baking soda, conditioner, water, & oil)
ACV RINSE RECIPE & EXPLANATION
EXPLANATION OF NO-POO METHOD
EXPLANATION OF CG METHOD

Basic Regimen & Products for Healthy Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

It's Avocado Time!

Avocados have a good amount of omega-6 fatty acids, which can soften the hair and impart shine.  For those who are interested, below is a list of homemade avocado hair treatments gathered from around the Web. Instructions for each recipe may be found by clicking on the "Source" links. Be sure to mash the avocado well!

AVOCADO HAIR MASK
1 ripe avocado
2 tablespoons organic yogurt
1 organic egg
1/2 teaspoon rosemary oil
1 tablespoon jojoba oil
Source: http://www.ehow.com/how_2194352_avocado-mask-hair.html

AVOCADO HAIR MOISTURIZER
1/4 avocado, peeled and mashed
1/4 mayonnaise
Source: http://www.skin-care-recipes-and-remedies.com/hair-conditioner.html

AVOCADO CONDITIONER
1 whole avocado

1 cup of coconut milk
Source: http://www.skin-care-recipes-and-remedies.com/hair-conditioner.html

AVOCADO CONDITIONING TREATMENT
1 avocado
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon of sea salt
1 tablespoon of pure aloe
Source: http://www.pioneerthinking.com/ll_avocadohair.html

AVOCADO CARAMEL TREATMENT
1 over ripe avocado
1.5 tbsp honey
2 tbsp coconut oil
2 tbsp jojoba oil
1 tbsp honey
1/4 cup shea butter (melted)
1 tbsp Apple Cider Vinegar
1 scoop molasses(optional)
Source: http://masquemagazine.com/2009/04/20/caramel-treatment-homemade-deep-conditioner/

MORE READS:
AVOCADO NUTRITION DATA

Reader's Question: More on Moisture ... Dry Ends

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Answer to Part 2 coming soon.

What causes these dry ends?

Sebum is the hair and scalp's natural conditioner. In straight hair, this oily substance can generally move down the shaft to the ends fairly easily because of the direct path. The hair's close proximity to the scalp as well as continual brushing and combing also aid in the transport process. As for textured hair? That is another story.

The coilier your hair, the harder it is for sebum to travel down to the ends. Here's my analogy: Imagine oil running along a straight road versus a path full of turns and twists. In the latter case, the oil may slow down or even get caught at each curve. By the time it reaches its destination, only a fraction of the oil will remain. There is also the possibility that it may never reach its destination. This process is basically what curly, coily, and kinky hairs experience. Additionally, factor in a minimal brushing/combing routine and the reality that some natural hair works against gravity (i.e., stands up and out away from the scalp). We ultimately have a case in which sebum just barely reaches the ends of our hair, if at all.

Now the explanation above is just one of many causes of dry ends. Other reasons are listed in this post on moisture and length retention.

How do you stop dry ends (due to inadequate sebum)?
Since sebum may barely, if at all, reach the ends of textured hair, it is necessary to quench and condition those ends. Here are some methods that work for me and may hopefully work for others:

*Discard harsh regular shampoos
Shampoos with SLS and other strong ingredients strip my hair (including my ends) of their natural oils. The shampoo I use on a regular basis contains more gentle substances. Other options to explore are conditioner washing or using homemade natural cleansers instead of a shampoo. Some people also do a treatment with oil at a warm or room temperature prior to washing to minimize sebum loss from their strands. (Click here for hot oil treatments.)

*Lather once when you shampoo
Minimal lathering equals minimal loss of whatever sebum is on my ends.

*No direct shampoo on the ends
I rarely expose my ends to direct shampoo. I just focus on the scalp and let the water and lather run down the rest of my hair.

*Saturate the ends with moisture and conditioner
Pay the most attention to your ends while conditioning and moisturizing.

*Invest in good products
Each individual head of hair is different, but this post may be a place to start in terms of what sealants, moisturizers, and conditioners to try.

*Eat foods containing omega-3 and vitamin A
Few people realize that foods, such as salmon, cantaloupe, and flaxseeds contribute to sebum production. For the omega-3 post, click here. For the vitamin A post, click here.

*Airdry the hair in a protective style
Protective styling isn't reserved for the protection of the ends. It has the added benefit, in my case, of helping my ends absorb and retain moisture post a washing session.

*Sleep with a silk scarf/pillowcase
The same added benefit applies here too.

How do you stop dry ends (due to porosity)?

I believe that another major contributor to dry ends in black hair is high porosity. What causes high porosity? Well, a number of things including gradual wear and tear of the hair. I really encourage anyone who believes they might have this issue to read this extremely informative article: Part 1 . For solutions to the porosity issues, do check out Part 2 as well: Part 2 .


SOURCES & MORE READS:
SEBUM
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 1
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 2: Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski. "Conditioning agents for hair and skin".
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 7

The ends of our hair are the oldest, and thus, have experienced the most wear and tear. While on shorter hair, the ends may only be a few months to a year old, on longer hair they can be a few to several years old. Imagine how much weathering long hair can suffer in that time frame! Because retaining length is about preserving the health of the ends, it may be beneficial, especially on longer or even damaged hair, to perform a pre-wash treatment, or pre-poo for protection.

What is a pre-poo?
In short, a pre-poo is a conditioning treatment performed prior to washing. A pre-poo can serve the purpose of moisturizing the strands so as to lessen the drying effects of the shampoo process. A pre-poo can also serve the purpose of strengthening the hair such that breakage and wear caused by the washing process are minimized. For more benefits and purposes of pre-pooing, see the links in the "MORE READS" section.

What can you use to pre-poo?
Pre-poos can range from oils to conditioners to other substances depending on the purpose of the treatment. Some examples of moisturizing pre-poos include olive oil, avocado oil, shea butter, or a cholesterol conditioner. Some examples of strengthening pre-poos include egg, coconut oil, or a protein conditioner. Each of these ingredients can also be combined to formulate a mixed pre-poo. For other examples, check out the links below.

MORE READS:
MORE ON PRE-POO #1
MORE ON PRE-POO #2
COCONUT OIL & PRE-POO

Brazilian Blowout Keratin Treatment Good Black Hair

Pictures about hair treatment for dry hair

Hair Styles Home Remedies For Conditioning Dry Hair Online Tips.

Moisturizing hair mask a conditioning hair mask or as a damaged hair treatment popular and important home remedy to clean your hair massage your hair and leave them dry.

Home Treatment For Hair.

Also called hair packs these intensive weekly treatments moisturize dry hair add shine to normal hair and nourish damaged hair avocados provide vitamin e and protein.

Dry Hair Shampoo Cosmetic And Treatment.

Whether you have greasy volume free hair dry damaged hair or simply want to olive oil hair treatment baking soda hair shampoo and vinegar rinse flaxseed oil hair.

Hair Treatment Argan Oil Hair Serum For Dry Hair Products Buy Hair.

Rene furterer online hair care store featuring shampoo and hair treatment for dry hair oily hair thin hair lifeless hair.

Hair Sensation Nutrition Intense Nourishing Treatment Shampoo Dry.

Whether your hair is dry frizzy or oily we ve got a daily routine with hair hair care treatments hair textures and types diet and hair health hairstyles and color.

Dry Hair.

Whether your hair is dry frizzy or oily we ve got a daily routine with hair hair care treatments hair textures and types diet and hair health hairstyles and color.

Great Hairstyles Com Hair Remedies For Dry Brittle Hair.

Use of hair styling products gel mouse hair dye hair curler cold weather dry of the scalp it is most common in people with oily hair dandruff treatment.

Vatika Hot Oil Treatment Deep Conditioning Formula Dry Dull Hair 1000g.

Hair care product specifically designed for those who have natural hair dry hair use this as a pre shampoo treatment scalp nourishing serum used daily this product.

Best Shampoo For Dry Scalp But Oily Hair No More Dry Scalp.

What it is a moisturizing pre cleansing step what it does this unique oil easily penetrates deeply into each strand bringing damaged dehydrated hair back to life.

Is The Brazilian Blowout And Keratin Treatment Good For Black Hair.

Whether your hair is dry frizzy or oily we ve got a daily routine with hair hair care treatments hair textures and types diet and hair health hairstyles and color.