New Shampoo ... Let's Talk pH

*The truth about pH and our hair:
The pH of our hair is about 5. Some sources say the pH of shampoos should range between 6.0-8.0 while others say the ideal pH is 5.5. Another source suggests between 4.0-7.0. Whatever the ideal number, the truth is the pH of our hair is 5 for a reason ... and to knock that balance way off can cause problems (e.g., dryness, roughness, cuticle lifting, scalp fungal growth, etc.).

MORE READS:
pH AND OUR HAIR - NATURAL HAVEN
pH AND OUR HAIR - CLASS PROJECT
LIST OF SHAMPOOS and pH
BENEFITS of LOW pH

********************************************************
*Why no poo no more?
My no poo routine consisted of using 1 part baking soda, 2-3 parts conditioner, and 3 parts water. I loved the mixture because it cleansed my scalp really well while not stripping my hair. However, this routine is nixed in light of the following informative sources - Kimmaytube's pH video and thenaturalhaven's baking soda post. I knew beforehand that baking soda was alkaline (i.e., high pH), but I did not know that though I diluted it with conditioner (slightly acidic) and water (neutral), it was still pretty high. I tested the solution myself and saw a whopping pH of 9. Even though I follow up with an ACV rinse (pH of 4), I don't know what long-term effect this routine will have on my hair and scalp ... so I'll stop now.

*My new shampoo:
I don't have a staple seeing as I'm just now switching back to poos. Right now, this Desert Essence is up to bat and Giovanni is on deck. Perhaps, Alba will make an experience too. Whatever the shampoo, it must have these qualities:

-max pH of 7 (after dilution in water),
-mainly natural,
-no sulfates,
-no silicones,
-no EDTA,
-super cleansing for the scalp (hence why I bought "for oily hair")

More on Desert Essence Organics Lemon Tea Tree Shampoo:
You smelled it right! I will be reviewing this in the near future. Any vegans or vegetarians out there will be happy to know that this shampoo is 100% vegan. The Lemon Tee Tree shampoo boasts containing: jojoba seed oil to loosen and dissolve excess oil and build-up on the scalp and hair, high-quality Austrailian Tea Tree Oil to provide antiseptic qualities, sugar cleansers, and more.

********************************************************
For those who want to check out the Desert Essence Organics line, here you go:

Desert Essence Hair

Retaining the Hair You Grow

Moisture, moisture, moisture!

Dry hair translates into hair that is more susceptible to breakage. Hair that has a sufficient level of moisture is more pliable and more able to withstand mechanical manipulation (combing, styling, etc.). Thus, moisture is a key factor to retaining length.

How do you know whether you hair is dry?
If your hair feels supple, then it has a good moisture content. Think flexible, elastic, and pliant. Rough, brittle, crispy, hard hair could be an indication of dryness and/or another issue (e.g., structural damage, etc.).

Is your dryness linked to a problem with moisture retention?
A healthy strand of hair will retain moisture really well for a good period of time. I have heard a stylist mention 48 hours as the magic number; whether this is true or not, I am not sure. Given my personal experience with my hair in damaged vs. healthy states, the number seems feasible. In my opinion, if you find yourself experiencing dryness within one day of a fresh wash & condition, you may want to:

1) evaluate your products and/or regimen,
2) review your diet,
3) assess whether you have hard water,
4) determine if the dryness is medically related,
OR
5) investigate high porosity as a potential issue.

A lot of articles and sites address the importance of porosity as it relates to moisture retention, protein/moisture balance, and more. View the links below for just a handful of these sources. In the mean time, keep in mind that if you want to retain the hair you grow, you must maintain a proper moisture level.

MORE READS:
POROSITY (all you need to know)
PROTEIN/MOISTURE BALANCE
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

----------------------------
This is a repost. Originally posted July 6, 2009.

Reader's Question: More on Moisture ... Dry Ends

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Answer to Part 2 coming soon.

What causes these dry ends?

Sebum is the hair and scalp's natural conditioner. In straight hair, this oily substance can generally move down the shaft to the ends fairly easily because of the direct path. The hair's close proximity to the scalp as well as continual brushing and combing also aid in the transport process. As for textured hair? That is another story.

The coilier your hair, the harder it is for sebum to travel down to the ends. Here's my analogy: Imagine oil running along a straight road versus a path full of turns and twists. In the latter case, the oil may slow down or even get caught at each curve. By the time it reaches its destination, only a fraction of the oil will remain. There is also the possibility that it may never reach its destination. This process is basically what curly, coily, and kinky hairs experience. Additionally, factor in a minimal brushing/combing routine and the reality that some natural hair works against gravity (i.e., stands up and out away from the scalp). We ultimately have a case in which sebum just barely reaches the ends of our hair, if at all.

Now the explanation above is just one of many causes of dry ends. Other reasons are listed in this post on moisture and length retention.

How do you stop dry ends (due to inadequate sebum)?
Since sebum may barely, if at all, reach the ends of textured hair, it is necessary to quench and condition those ends. Here are some methods that work for me and may hopefully work for others:

*Discard harsh regular shampoos
Shampoos with SLS and other strong ingredients strip my hair (including my ends) of their natural oils. The shampoo I use on a regular basis contains more gentle substances. Other options to explore are conditioner washing or using homemade natural cleansers instead of a shampoo. Some people also do a treatment with oil at a warm or room temperature prior to washing to minimize sebum loss from their strands. (Click here for hot oil treatments.)

*Lather once when you shampoo
Minimal lathering equals minimal loss of whatever sebum is on my ends.

*No direct shampoo on the ends
I rarely expose my ends to direct shampoo. I just focus on the scalp and let the water and lather run down the rest of my hair.

*Saturate the ends with moisture and conditioner
Pay the most attention to your ends while conditioning and moisturizing.

*Invest in good products
Each individual head of hair is different, but this post may be a place to start in terms of what sealants, moisturizers, and conditioners to try.

*Eat foods containing omega-3 and vitamin A
Few people realize that foods, such as salmon, cantaloupe, and flaxseeds contribute to sebum production. For the omega-3 post, click here. For the vitamin A post, click here.

*Airdry the hair in a protective style
Protective styling isn't reserved for the protection of the ends. It has the added benefit, in my case, of helping my ends absorb and retain moisture post a washing session.

*Sleep with a silk scarf/pillowcase
The same added benefit applies here too.

How do you stop dry ends (due to porosity)?

I believe that another major contributor to dry ends in black hair is high porosity. What causes high porosity? Well, a number of things including gradual wear and tear of the hair. I really encourage anyone who believes they might have this issue to read this extremely informative article: Part 1 . For solutions to the porosity issues, do check out Part 2 as well: Part 2 .


SOURCES & MORE READS:
SEBUM
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 1
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 2: Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski. "Conditioning agents for hair and skin".
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)