Winterize Your Conditioner!

Okay, it's not officially Winter yet, but it doesn't hurt to prepare ...

My obsession with shea butter does not stop at hair and body butters but extends to deep conditioners.  A few tablespoons will infuse an inexpensive conditioner with moisture and slip.  Try adding some melted shea butter to V05, Suave, or White Rain ... or mixing it with honey, egg, oil, or avocado to deep condition your hair this Winter ... and even Autumn!

Oils, Aloe Vera, and Whipped Hair Butter

It's that time of year again to mix another whipped hair butter!  (My batch ran out this weekend.)  

Ingredients (all are moisturizing):

• unrefined shea butter (softening)
• coconut oil (protection [1] [2])
• olive oil
• safflower OR grapeseed oil (high in fatty acids)
• aloe vera gel
• essential oil (for fragrance, optional)

Instructions:

Read my earlier post on the body butter mixture; the instructions are very similar.  For every cup of shea butter, use 1/4 a cup of olive oil, 1/8 a cup of coconut oil, 1/8 a cup of safflower/grapeseed oil, and a few tablespoons of aloe vera gel.  Of course you can tweak this mixture for a creamier or firmer consistency.  Feel free add drops of your favorite essential oil for fragrance!

FOR THE MIXOLOGISTS:

More whipped butter recipes can be found here.

Retaining the Hair You Grow

Moisture, moisture, moisture!

Dry hair translates into hair that is more susceptible to breakage. Hair that has a sufficient level of moisture is more pliable and more able to withstand mechanical manipulation (combing, styling, etc.). Thus, moisture is a key factor to retaining length.

How do you know whether you hair is dry?
If your hair feels supple, then it has a good moisture content. Think flexible, elastic, and pliant. Rough, brittle, crispy, hard hair could be an indication of dryness and/or another issue (e.g., structural damage, etc.).

Is your dryness linked to a problem with moisture retention?
A healthy strand of hair will retain moisture really well for a good period of time. I have heard a stylist mention 48 hours as the magic number; whether this is true or not, I am not sure. Given my personal experience with my hair in damaged vs. healthy states, the number seems feasible. In my opinion, if you find yourself experiencing dryness within one day of a fresh wash & condition, you may want to:

1) evaluate your products and/or regimen,
2) review your diet,
3) assess whether you have hard water,
4) determine if the dryness is medically related,
OR
5) investigate high porosity as a potential issue.

A lot of articles and sites address the importance of porosity as it relates to moisture retention, protein/moisture balance, and more. View the links below for just a handful of these sources. In the mean time, keep in mind that if you want to retain the hair you grow, you must maintain a proper moisture level.

MORE READS:
POROSITY (all you need to know)
PROTEIN/MOISTURE BALANCE
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

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This is a repost. Originally posted July 6, 2009.

Study || Hard Water Impact On Hair

Hard water metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layer.  A study published in 2011 indicated that these metals can affect certain hair properties, which include:

- stiffening of hair strand
- reduction of combing forces
- improvement of ability to hold a style in virgin hair
- reduction of ability to hold a style in bleached hair

Additionally, certain variables affect the uptake of hard water metals by the hair, such as the:

- condition of the hair (e.g., chemically damaged)
- pH of the water
- level of water hardness


ABSTRACTS:
STRUCTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF HARD WATER METALS (2011)
UPTAKE OF HARD WATER METALS BY HAIR (2011)

No Poo Review: Baking Soda with Conditioner

Definition of no poo: cleansing of the hair using an alternative method to shampooing.

It's going on two months since I switched to a no-poo regimen, and so far it's been going well; my hair feels clean, softer, and requires less moisturization. There are numerous ways to go the no-poo route, but what's been working for me is the combination of baking soda and conditioner diluted with water for washing + minimal use of products. Here are the main benefits of a no-poo regimen:

*eliminates the drying, harsh effects of shampoo (particularly commercial shampoos containing sulfates)
*in some cases, eliminates the deep conditioning step
*inexpensive - your wallet will be happy

What I like about this baking soda technique over other no-poo methods is a) it removes buildup, dirt, etc. from my scalp and hair really well while b) retaining the moisture and softness of my tresses. Here's a rundown of what I do:

1) Mix 3 parts water, 2-3 parts conditioner, and 1 part baking soda in an applicator bottle
2) Rinse hair under lukewarm water for 1-2 minutes
3) Apply diluted baking soda conditioner to scalp ONLY
4) Massage scalp thoroughly for 5 minutes
5) Rinse scalp and hair thoroughly
6) Follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse, if necessary

Afterwards, I condition with V05 for 2-5 minutes, rinse, then moisturize as usual. A no-poo regimen is ideal for hair that is prone to dryness. With this method, it is important to minimize, or even eliminate, the use of heavy products which require the use of a shampoo for removal (e.g., products containing silicones). An occasional clarifier or shampoo may still be necessary , but it depends on the person and actual technique used.

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TUTORIAL, ETC.:
YOUTUBE VID OF BAKING SODA WASH: (She uses baking soda, conditioner, water, & oil)
ACV RINSE RECIPE & EXPLANATION
EXPLANATION OF NO-POO METHOD
EXPLANATION OF CG METHOD

Basic Regimen & Products for Healthy Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Whipped Hair Butter Recipes Galore!

Homemade whipped hair butters. Natural. Easy to make. Inexpensive compared to those sold in natural hair shops. More effective than commercial, chemical-based moisturizers and sealants. Delicious for the hair. Did I mention easy to make? Below are links to recipes I've found online. There are endless others you can find on the web. Put on your apron, grab your utensils, and get to mixing:

Shealoe (popular recipe) - shea butter, aloe vera, etc.: Recipe

Cocoa butter, shea butter, etc.: Recipe

Mango butter, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, coconut oil, aloe, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, grapeseed oil, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, conditioner, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, olive oil, etc.: Recipe

Low porosity shea/mango mix: Recipe

Shea butter, castor oil, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, mango butter, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, coconut oil, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, jojoba oil, etc.: Recipe

Shea butter, sweet almond oil, etc.: Recipe



OTHER READS:
LIST OF BUTTERS & THEIR PROPERTIES

LIST OF VEGETABLE OILS & THEIR PROPERTIES
LIST OF ESSENTIAL OILS & THEIR PROPERTIES

Reader's Question: More on Moisture ... Dry Ends

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Answer to Part 2 coming soon.

What causes these dry ends?

Sebum is the hair and scalp's natural conditioner. In straight hair, this oily substance can generally move down the shaft to the ends fairly easily because of the direct path. The hair's close proximity to the scalp as well as continual brushing and combing also aid in the transport process. As for textured hair? That is another story.

The coilier your hair, the harder it is for sebum to travel down to the ends. Here's my analogy: Imagine oil running along a straight road versus a path full of turns and twists. In the latter case, the oil may slow down or even get caught at each curve. By the time it reaches its destination, only a fraction of the oil will remain. There is also the possibility that it may never reach its destination. This process is basically what curly, coily, and kinky hairs experience. Additionally, factor in a minimal brushing/combing routine and the reality that some natural hair works against gravity (i.e., stands up and out away from the scalp). We ultimately have a case in which sebum just barely reaches the ends of our hair, if at all.

Now the explanation above is just one of many causes of dry ends. Other reasons are listed in this post on moisture and length retention.

How do you stop dry ends (due to inadequate sebum)?
Since sebum may barely, if at all, reach the ends of textured hair, it is necessary to quench and condition those ends. Here are some methods that work for me and may hopefully work for others:

*Discard harsh regular shampoos
Shampoos with SLS and other strong ingredients strip my hair (including my ends) of their natural oils. The shampoo I use on a regular basis contains more gentle substances. Other options to explore are conditioner washing or using homemade natural cleansers instead of a shampoo. Some people also do a treatment with oil at a warm or room temperature prior to washing to minimize sebum loss from their strands. (Click here for hot oil treatments.)

*Lather once when you shampoo
Minimal lathering equals minimal loss of whatever sebum is on my ends.

*No direct shampoo on the ends
I rarely expose my ends to direct shampoo. I just focus on the scalp and let the water and lather run down the rest of my hair.

*Saturate the ends with moisture and conditioner
Pay the most attention to your ends while conditioning and moisturizing.

*Invest in good products
Each individual head of hair is different, but this post may be a place to start in terms of what sealants, moisturizers, and conditioners to try.

*Eat foods containing omega-3 and vitamin A
Few people realize that foods, such as salmon, cantaloupe, and flaxseeds contribute to sebum production. For the omega-3 post, click here. For the vitamin A post, click here.

*Airdry the hair in a protective style
Protective styling isn't reserved for the protection of the ends. It has the added benefit, in my case, of helping my ends absorb and retain moisture post a washing session.

*Sleep with a silk scarf/pillowcase
The same added benefit applies here too.

How do you stop dry ends (due to porosity)?

I believe that another major contributor to dry ends in black hair is high porosity. What causes high porosity? Well, a number of things including gradual wear and tear of the hair. I really encourage anyone who believes they might have this issue to read this extremely informative article: Part 1 . For solutions to the porosity issues, do check out Part 2 as well: Part 2 .


SOURCES & MORE READS:
SEBUM
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 1
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 2: Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski. "Conditioning agents for hair and skin".
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 7

The ends of our hair are the oldest, and thus, have experienced the most wear and tear. While on shorter hair, the ends may only be a few months to a year old, on longer hair they can be a few to several years old. Imagine how much weathering long hair can suffer in that time frame! Because retaining length is about preserving the health of the ends, it may be beneficial, especially on longer or even damaged hair, to perform a pre-wash treatment, or pre-poo for protection.

What is a pre-poo?
In short, a pre-poo is a conditioning treatment performed prior to washing. A pre-poo can serve the purpose of moisturizing the strands so as to lessen the drying effects of the shampoo process. A pre-poo can also serve the purpose of strengthening the hair such that breakage and wear caused by the washing process are minimized. For more benefits and purposes of pre-pooing, see the links in the "MORE READS" section.

What can you use to pre-poo?
Pre-poos can range from oils to conditioners to other substances depending on the purpose of the treatment. Some examples of moisturizing pre-poos include olive oil, avocado oil, shea butter, or a cholesterol conditioner. Some examples of strengthening pre-poos include egg, coconut oil, or a protein conditioner. Each of these ingredients can also be combined to formulate a mixed pre-poo. For other examples, check out the links below.

MORE READS:
MORE ON PRE-POO #1
MORE ON PRE-POO #2
COCONUT OIL & PRE-POO

Winter Healthy Hair Tip || Retaining Moisture During Washes

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Switch out every other shampoo for a co-wash.  Doing this will help to remove some of the gunk without stripping your hair dry.

Don't like to co-wash?  Here are some other options:

• Use a cleansing conditioner, which is designed to clean the hair better than a regular conditioner.
• Apply conditioner to your strands and only shampoo your scalp.  This way your ends are protected from moisture loss.
• Pre-poo with an oil and/conditioner.
• Use a mud wash or clay.