Countdown to MBL Update

Despite a salon setback months ago, MBL is in sight (or already here?).  This length check was taken the first week of August 2010.  It is further proof that black hair can grow.

So what helped me reach this goal?

• Staying DIY (do-it-yourself)
• Coconut oil prepoos
• Leaving my hair alone (i.e., protective styling 2-4 weeks at a time)
• Regular detangling (not too frequent and not to seldom)
• Twists galore

Reaching WSL is next on my list!

Retaining the Hair You Grow

Moisture, moisture, moisture!

Dry hair translates into hair that is more susceptible to breakage. Hair that has a sufficient level of moisture is more pliable and more able to withstand mechanical manipulation (combing, styling, etc.). Thus, moisture is a key factor to retaining length.

How do you know whether you hair is dry?
If your hair feels supple, then it has a good moisture content. Think flexible, elastic, and pliant. Rough, brittle, crispy, hard hair could be an indication of dryness and/or another issue (e.g., structural damage, etc.).

Is your dryness linked to a problem with moisture retention?
A healthy strand of hair will retain moisture really well for a good period of time. I have heard a stylist mention 48 hours as the magic number; whether this is true or not, I am not sure. Given my personal experience with my hair in damaged vs. healthy states, the number seems feasible. In my opinion, if you find yourself experiencing dryness within one day of a fresh wash & condition, you may want to:

1) evaluate your products and/or regimen,
2) review your diet,
3) assess whether you have hard water,
4) determine if the dryness is medically related,
OR
5) investigate high porosity as a potential issue.

A lot of articles and sites address the importance of porosity as it relates to moisture retention, protein/moisture balance, and more. View the links below for just a handful of these sources. In the mean time, keep in mind that if you want to retain the hair you grow, you must maintain a proper moisture level.

MORE READS:
POROSITY (all you need to know)
PROTEIN/MOISTURE BALANCE
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

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This is a repost. Originally posted July 6, 2009.

Twist Series: Growth & Length Retention I

TRIMMING.  More answers to your "Growth & Length Retention" questions coming soon ...

• thanks for being so charitable as to provide this info for us thirsty readers! here's my query: since taking down my 10 year old locs, i have "dusted" my ends but not gone for a professional trim. i've worn my hair in some form of natural for 15 years now, but this is my first time really on a "length" journey, so i'm trying to familiarize myself with all the new products, info, and various strategies. As such, I am wondering how crucial regular trimming has been for you.

Regular trimming is very crucial for length retention because it removes damaged ends (e.g, split ends, single-strand knots, etc.).  However, how you trim can determine whether you are actually retaining length or cutting away progress.  I only trim my ends when needed as opposed to following a set schedule.  For more details, on trimming for length retention, here is a repost:

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Freeze! Drop the scissors! Put your hands up! Stop cutting!

Excessive trimming can hinder length retention. If your hair grows six inches a year and you trim half an inch every month, then you are essentially cutting off all your growth progress. In order to retain length, you have to (1) be healthy from the inside out, (2) treat your hair right, and (3) pick up the scissors only when necessary. There is a time to trim that is not dictated by the calendar on the wall but by the health of the ends of your hair.

{May 2009}

TO THE RIGHT: A photo of hair that has not been trimmed in over a year. The ends are not blunt, but they are also not damaged. Trimming for style is your choice, but if you want maximum length retention, then only trim when needed -- when the ends are damaged.

HEALTHY VS DAMAGED ENDS:
Healthy ends are free from splits and other damage. Splits are an indicator of damage to the cuticle and come in all shapes and sizes. Some occur at the very ends of the hair while others form in the middle of a strand. The hair may be appear to be split into two pieces or more. It is a myth that split ends can be repaired; some products may temporarily make them less visible, but splits cannot "heal" themselves and will exist until cut off. If you are taking great care of your hair, you will see fewer splits. Fewer splits = healthier hair. Healthier hair = fewer trims.

CUTTING DAMAGED ENDS:
Even if you've determined that your ends are damaged, a full-on trim may not be required. Search and destroy is a method for only cutting the strands that have splits or other visible damage. Dusting is a method of trimming a very small fraction of hair -- about 1/4 of an inch or less. Search and destroy and dusting are ideal for hair that exhibits a small amount of damaged ends. A full-on trim is needed when a large portion of the hair's ends are damaged.

MORE READS:
MINIMIZING SPLIT ENDS (great article btw)
SEARCH & DESTROY AND DUSTING

3 inches in 6 months Challenge!

How do you readers feel about joining me in a length retention challenge?

Hair grows an average of 0.5in/month.  (Some people get less growth and others get more.)  For this challenge, we'll aim to retain 2-3 inches in 6 months.  Guidelines will be posted later this week to help you through the process.  Also, we'll be in touch on a monthly basis. If you are interested, please leave a comment below.

Challenge period: February 1 - August 1, 2011.

Healthy hair in 2011!

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 7

The ends of our hair are the oldest, and thus, have experienced the most wear and tear. While on shorter hair, the ends may only be a few months to a year old, on longer hair they can be a few to several years old. Imagine how much weathering long hair can suffer in that time frame! Because retaining length is about preserving the health of the ends, it may be beneficial, especially on longer or even damaged hair, to perform a pre-wash treatment, or pre-poo for protection.

What is a pre-poo?
In short, a pre-poo is a conditioning treatment performed prior to washing. A pre-poo can serve the purpose of moisturizing the strands so as to lessen the drying effects of the shampoo process. A pre-poo can also serve the purpose of strengthening the hair such that breakage and wear caused by the washing process are minimized. For more benefits and purposes of pre-pooing, see the links in the "MORE READS" section.

What can you use to pre-poo?
Pre-poos can range from oils to conditioners to other substances depending on the purpose of the treatment. Some examples of moisturizing pre-poos include olive oil, avocado oil, shea butter, or a cholesterol conditioner. Some examples of strengthening pre-poos include egg, coconut oil, or a protein conditioner. Each of these ingredients can also be combined to formulate a mixed pre-poo. For other examples, check out the links below.

MORE READS:
MORE ON PRE-POO #1
MORE ON PRE-POO #2
COCONUT OIL & PRE-POO

Reader's Question: Hair Knots ... Be Gone!

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Post on "When You Get a Knot" coming soon.

Single-strand knots. Double-strand knots. Multiple-strand knots. Be gone!

The truth of the matter is that for many naturals, hair knots are inevitable. We can have a solid hair care regimen, yet they always appear. This is because our curls, coils, and kinks form an environment conducive to tangling and knotting.

Though hair knots cannot be prevented altogether, the frequency of their occurrence can be minimized. Here are 5 tips I have read about and used to reduce the formation of the natural's nightmare - the knot:

1. Protective style - This is the number one most useful tip, and it makes perfect sense. When is a piece of yarn most prone to tangling - when it is in a perfect ball or when it is loose? The answer is the latter, and the same goes for our hair. Twists and braids are probably the most useful protective styles for minimizing knot formation. (If you are one those naturals who still gets knots while in twists, you may want to try braids instead.)

2. Detangle regularly - Hair that is allowed to stay tangled is more likely to knot. Additionally, shed hair that is allowed to accumulate becomes hair that is just waiting to wrap itself around another. Detangling removes tangles and shed hair, thus reducing knot formation.

3. Wash in sections - For some of us, washing the hair loose is just asking for knot city! I recommend washing and conditioning in sections -- particularly in braids or twists -- to reduce tangling and knot formation.

4. Stretched loose style / No wash-n-gos - Straight hair rarely, if ever, knots onto itself. But wait! I am not suggesting that your options are limited to using a flat iron or relaxer kit to reduce knots. Naturals can wear rollersets, twistouts, braidouts, or other stretched styles that temporarily and healthily elongate the curl pattern. Minimize or stay away from wash-n-gos altogether. Caveat: Once a stretched style starts to shrink, the loose hair can be prone to tangling. Try to save stretched styles for non-humid days.

5. Moisturize, moisturize - Some naturals swear by this method for knot reduction. Hair strands that are dry will experience more friction and join into knots. Hair strands that are well moisturized will slide past each other and have a harder time tangling together.  Don't forget to seal with an oil/butter to not only lock in the moisture but to add more slip between hair strands.